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6v53 reassemble

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8 years 6 months ago #161504 by v8 inter nut
Replied by v8 inter nut on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
Lol Phillip, cummins blokes always have more money cause they don't need to touch the engine!

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8 years 6 months ago #161505 by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble

I wonder if you could show us how that pin comes up with a bit of 1200? It may not be that bad. Most of the rust will be on top of the surface, I reckon.

Jarrod.

normally I would do just that, however - I quote from the manual: "the highly polished and lapped surface of pin must not in any way be refinished. Polishing or refinishing any part of the piston surface is not recommended as it will result in very rapid bushing wear."

I guess they think their polishing is better than what you'd do in workshop? Maybe I don't have too much to lose as these pistons aren't exactly like new... Will clean them up and see what they feel like.

just put her together mate make sure the oil pump is half good and hold her flat sheel just sing like a new one.
P.S. chech the blower drive is ok they need to be at 3500 rpm and have some fun dont worry about v8 nut hes rich LOL

"just put her together" ;D Well I guess that's what I plan to do more or less! Didn't realise the blower spins over crank speed, will be thorough there...

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8 years 6 months ago #161506 by Skipjack
Replied by Skipjack on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
Wedgetail, considering the conditions of the pins, you'd be well advised to go with new. Even bought separate from the kits, the price shouldn't be all that bad. A floating pin requires a nearly mirror surface, because the slightest roughness will fix the pin in either the rod or piston bore, and when it stops turning it starts pounding.

The bushing bores can be cleaned with a strong detergent and a nylon bristle bottle brush. If I got the history of the engine right, it didn't run long after the fire extinguisher was deployed, so with any luck your pin to bushing clearance (assuming new pins) should still be good. It's real close, just a smooth slide fit. This joint is one of the first failure points in a Detroit when multiweight oil is used.

To belabor an earlier post, get the pin retainer bores as shiny as you can. An oil leak here tends to be high volume and can really spoil your fun.

Keep peckin' away at it, it's gonna run fine.

All the best,

Mark

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8 years 6 months ago #161507 by asw120
Replied by asw120 on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
Always things to be learned on this forum. (thanks for chiming in, Mark) Now I know why there are welch plugs in there.

If I eventually get a heavy truck, this is the kind of rebuilding I'll be doing.

Cheers, Jarrod.


“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”

― Adlai E. Stevenson II

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8 years 6 months ago #161508 by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
Yeah I think I might just go all new pins. Found some on ebay for US$25 a pin (think I want 5104651), although will wait before buying as might end up with a few bits needed so get it as a package...


get the pin retainer bores as shiny as you can. An oil leak here tends to be high volume and can really spoil your fun.

any tips on this - I was thinking they wouldn't suffer from a touch up but don't want to make them out of round or anything. Maybe a bit of W&D but don't want to round the edge of the bore off either

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8 years 6 months ago #161509 by dieseldog
Replied by dieseldog on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
For cleaning small bores, ports, etc a scourer pad in the end of a cordless drill will work wonders without removing any metal. I find the red ones work the best.

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8 years 6 months ago #161510 by Skipjack
Replied by Skipjack on topic Re: 6v53 reassemble
I would use a nylon or other relatively soft bristle brush, definitely not brass or steel, with a mild solvent (Mystery Oil, WD-40, kerosene, diesel?) and work gently under a good light. Any scraper should be a bit of plastic or wood. If you luck out, there'll be enough of the tin left on the bore to catch the retainer edge. Again, from an earlier post on the old thread: use a vacuum pump and cup to check the seal, with a thin grease film under the cup if the piston surface is iffy. The fuel fill method in the repair manual probably works, but the vacuum guage will tell you right now whether the retainer is sealed or not, and you won't have fuel all over everything. If it isn't sealed, start over.

Have fun,

Mark

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8 years 4 months ago - 8 years 4 months ago #164384 by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic 6v53 reassemble
well I've made a bit of progress - although not directly on the GM. Have almost finished the engine stand based round an old D7 canopy. Skipjack sent me some inspiring pictures and a description of a really good stand. Mine is more an approximation to the idea than a worthy copy, but it feels a bit over built for the 6v53 so should be good. Last engine I did (well only in fact) I got sick of the fact it was always the wrong way around, in the way and a bad height, so might as well start properly.

Still got a couple more pistons to go, still waiting for the phaser to go some I can actually buy some parts... Discovered a diesel mechanic mate who was in the army is pretty keen on them and claims he's good at tuning etc.. Even knows of two complete 6v53s in Mudgee and he's looking into how loved they are at the moment





So here's a question. What's the best way to mount the engine to the stand? I'd prefer to mount it sideways, and have seen pictures but none close up of a GM. Do you use the oil cooler bolt holes? How else would you do it? Will just weld a plate to the end of the shaft (pipe) with a few gussets to strengthen then a specific bolt pattern drilled in it
Last edit: 8 years 4 months ago by wedgetail84.

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8 years 4 months ago #164386 by Swishy
Replied by Swishy on topic 6v53 reassemble
Wedgy
M80
Grab it by the Bell housing where the engine mounts screw in

cya

OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST

There's more WORTH in KENWORTH

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8 years 4 months ago - 8 years 4 months ago #164388 by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic 6v53 reassemble

Swishy wrote: Wedgy
M80
Grab it by the Bell housing where the engine mounts screw in

cya

Thanks, they'll have no problem with the overall weight I'm sure. What about the front though? And is that high enough? I would have thought there'd be a lot of stress on the top bolts as the engine wants to fall away when upright?
Last edit: 8 years 4 months ago by wedgetail84.

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