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6v53 reassemble
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- wedgetail84
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normally I would do just that, however - I quote from the manual: "the highly polished and lapped surface of pin must not in any way be refinished. Polishing or refinishing any part of the piston surface is not recommended as it will result in very rapid bushing wear."I wonder if you could show us how that pin comes up with a bit of 1200? It may not be that bad. Most of the rust will be on top of the surface, I reckon.
Jarrod.
I guess they think their polishing is better than what you'd do in workshop? Maybe I don't have too much to lose as these pistons aren't exactly like new... Will clean them up and see what they feel like.
"just put her together" Well I guess that's what I plan to do more or less! Didn't realise the blower spins over crank speed, will be thorough there...just put her together mate make sure the oil pump is half good and hold her flat sheel just sing like a new one.
P.S. chech the blower drive is ok they need to be at 3500 rpm and have some fun dont worry about v8 nut hes rich LOL
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The bushing bores can be cleaned with a strong detergent and a nylon bristle bottle brush. If I got the history of the engine right, it didn't run long after the fire extinguisher was deployed, so with any luck your pin to bushing clearance (assuming new pins) should still be good. It's real close, just a smooth slide fit. This joint is one of the first failure points in a Detroit when multiweight oil is used.
To belabor an earlier post, get the pin retainer bores as shiny as you can. An oil leak here tends to be high volume and can really spoil your fun.
Keep peckin' away at it, it's gonna run fine.
All the best,
Mark
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If I eventually get a heavy truck, this is the kind of rebuilding I'll be doing.
Cheers, Jarrod.
“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”
― Adlai E. Stevenson II
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- wedgetail84
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any tips on this - I was thinking they wouldn't suffer from a touch up but don't want to make them out of round or anything. Maybe a bit of W&D but don't want to round the edge of the bore off either
get the pin retainer bores as shiny as you can. An oil leak here tends to be high volume and can really spoil your fun.
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Have fun,
Mark
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- wedgetail84
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Still got a couple more pistons to go, still waiting for the phaser to go some I can actually buy some parts... Discovered a diesel mechanic mate who was in the army is pretty keen on them and claims he's good at tuning etc.. Even knows of two complete 6v53s in Mudgee and he's looking into how loved they are at the moment
So here's a question. What's the best way to mount the engine to the stand? I'd prefer to mount it sideways, and have seen pictures but none close up of a GM. Do you use the oil cooler bolt holes? How else would you do it? Will just weld a plate to the end of the shaft (pipe) with a few gussets to strengthen then a specific bolt pattern drilled in it
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M80
Grab it by the Bell housing where the engine mounts screw in
cya
OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST
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- wedgetail84
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Thanks, they'll have no problem with the overall weight I'm sure. What about the front though? And is that high enough? I would have thought there'd be a lot of stress on the top bolts as the engine wants to fall away when upright?Swishy wrote: Wedgy
M80
Grab it by the Bell housing where the engine mounts screw in
cya
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