6v53 reassemble

Hi Wedgetail

I have never had anything to do with a 53 Series, only 71s but I think there may be different port heights in the sleeves between turbo and non turbo sleeves.

This catalog of 2 stroke parts may give you some info.

www.interstate-mcbee.com/media/documents...-2-cycle-2013-lr.pdf

Paul

Paul, that's a great link for liner height info.

Wedge, if you check the link, there are cylinder kits at page 3 and page 13, both showing port heights. The height seems to be correlated with two or four valve as well as turbo or non-turbo. If you can find something in your spares pile that matches the height and will clean up to suit, you should be all set. Also, if you wind up doing a mix and match, make sure your liner height (block to top of liner) is the same for all six.

It's great that you've found the time to get back on the project. Good luck!

Mark

Thanks for that link Paul, that helps.

Looking at those numbers Mark it actually look promising - mine are trunk (and 1 1/3 pin at that), and the liners in the trunk kits are the same for non turbo kits... So it's the total port height - not just the distance from top of port to top of liner? I assumed they'd all be level (or close to) the top of the block as well. Will do some measuring. Yeah feels great to finally do something on it - even if it's so minor!

EDIT, just took a few measurements with verniers and the bores, port height and port depth all seem the same :woohoo:

Hi Wedgetail. Do you have a 53 Series workshop manual? If not there is a link to a PDF copy you can download if you need.

Paul

I would say go for it wedgie...........
There is a big diffrence between worn out and something that is rusty.
clean every thing as best as possible and throw it together............
a good dose of common sense is the best diagnoser..............
I remember an old grey holden donk of mine that a piston broke around
the oil ring area...........fitted another second hand piston( STD bore) and a
full set of .040 over second hand rings, filed down gaps to suit,
threw it together and lasted for years......so for your purpose............
if its just rusty and not worn out it should be ok..........
bearing in mind, a rust pitted bore may burn a bit of oil...........
..........................Billy......................

PS...... i think i came into this about half way through the posts......
looking at the old liners they dont look all that good ..do they........
.Anyway...........
i will still leave it here..........Wot the heck.............

Yes I have a manual thanks Paul - I did find the PDF one but also have a paper one which is slightly later than the PDF and includes turbo info. The PDF one I haven't doesn't mention turbos...

Thanks Billy but as you say I think the liners out of my turbo block are too heavily pitted. I'm pretty confident the liners out of my 5067-5040 are the same though and seem pretty good at first glance - no pitting, still a bit of cross hatching and no top lip either. Won't be able to really know until I pull them out and give a quick hone though. Guess I'll need to make up a slide hammer/puller to get them out now

Wedge, if the pistons are still in your donor engine (and connected to the crank, of course) you can jack the liners out by placing a soft steel rod (grade 2 3/4" or 7/8" bolt cut to the proper length works well) across the top of the piston such that the ends stick into the ports just short of the thickness of the liner wall. Then bar the engine over from the crankshaft bolt. Generally by the time you get the liner up an inch or two, it'll be loose enough to lift out. Since the engine is rolling around loose, you'll probably have to chain it to your forklift or loader bucket to steady it.

If the pistons are out, take a piece of channel with at least a 3" flange and web wide enough to span the liner. Drill a hole sufficient to slide in a piece of 1/2" threaded rod long enough to reach well below the ports. Weld a nut to the top of the rod. You can either drill and tap your cross rod or just through drill it and weld another nut to the bottom. You may need a sturdier bit of stock for the cross rod with this method. Assemble the rig with a well greased hard flat washer between the top nut and the channel. Smack it with the rattle wrench and it should pop right out.

Or you can just pick a cool day and attack it with the slap hammer.

All the best,

Mark

Thanks Mark, that all sounds good. Yeah pistons are out. Was thinking I might use a bit of 100NB pipe rather than channel to clear the liner. I'm thinking not too much force should be needed as the manual says it should be a slip fit. Just carbon build up? So you go for port holes rather than bottom of liner? Why is this?

The ports are accessible when the pistons are in, and a puller laid in there stays centered in the bore. If the pistons have been removed, you can span the bottom of the liner with a heavy piece of flat stock trimmed to fit. Either way, the liners should slip after they've been jacked out a bit. I've occasionally had to put considerable yank on a liner that's been in the block for a while to get it started, but mostly they'll slide right out. If you have a heavy slide hammer, you might try that first. Just try to rig it so you're pulling evenly. I've seen guys use a slide with a hook puller, smack one side then the other, not too hard, and they'll sometimes pop that way if they aren't too tight. You'd want to be careful doing this, as you might chip the bottom of the liner if you slip.

If you do make a bridge type puller, the pipe would work just as well as the channel. If you're pulling from the bottom of the liner, drill the hole in a piece of flat stock a little longer than the width of the piece you're using to pull. Weld your nut to this smaller piece, and on the top side of it weld a tit on each end such that when it's tight against the crosspiece it can't turn. Then cut or mill a slot centered in your cross piece (which should be of a size to catch the center third of the liner, with the ends rounded) such that when the puller is loosely assembled you can angle the whole business down the hole. A refinement here might be to weld stops on top of the crosspiece at the ID of the liner so that it centers in the liner when you wind it up. This sounds like a bit of a project, but if the liners are stuck tight you may need it. And who knows, you may be doing this again someday.

Cheers, and (per Swishy) have an occasional wee sip.

Mark

Wedgy
Gudday M8

U'r do n good

We're all look n ovr u're shoulder n learn n az U go

n az Skipjack sez ..... a wee sip iz in order ........ for all efforts purr 4md

cya