AL110 restoration, the early stages

Wombat, I would be surprised if way back when new they truck tray was screwed down, mostly they were loose but the edges were wedged with a packer under the coaming rail. Or sometimes tongued under a steel flat. I have an old wooden tray frame with timber side rails that have a groove for the deck to tongue into.

A little bit of moisture or a little bit of sun can make a fair bit of movement which will warp, twist or pop your boards if they are screwed.

Someone here will know far better than me, see if you can get more experience opinion. You have got the right timber, be a pity to cruel it.

thanks for keeping us posted.

The timber in the ASW tray was screwed down originally as there were no wear strips. There were captive pieces of timber running crossways for this.
It's possible the coupe ute is different.

Jarrod.

Some great info on the timber,
Thank you!
I have no clue what the original set up was, as i have not seen any others around,
The tray does not appear to have a lip that i saw and it may have had bed strips too?
I did look at those and they seemed very pricey for my project.
I do understand about the movement and am open to all ideas on a solution,
My boards are rough sawn square edge, boards with out a tongue or groove, so i may try to make a bed strip up, but i am still looking for a material to use.
Jim

My last post needs clarifying. There are runners between the boards, which are a 'hat' section (inverted, flanged U-section). No wear strips, as such (which some old utes had screwed down on top of the boards, perhaps also holding them down).

A little bit of progress the last few weeks,
The motor is nearly running now, when i first started it the fuel pump was bad and did not suck up fuel, so a mate pulled two apart and built one from the parts.
The starter that i worked on some months back had a worn thread on the copper power band that runs from the solenoid to the motor which was causing the unit to run slow.
So that is all fixed now, also i have been blessed with some parts, an original air oil bath cleaner from a member here, so a big Thank you
Also some hub caps which i hope will arrive in the post in a day or two!
The engine wiring is in and it starts with the key now!
I started the engine with the original carter carb, and it idle's fine but i need to work out how to hook up the original carb linkages, so far i have the one from the fire wall going forward toward the manifold and two spare linkage rods on the bench! and no clue how they go??
I have the sump off too and have beat that back into shape on the 'shrinking stump' so that has been another use for it!
When the motor sprung into life, with the help of some petrol down the carb a huge 'knock' resounded from the engine block!!
As fear was trying to grip me with the thought of a huge bearing knock and costly engine rebuild!
After a few days away from the shed, i returned and started her up again, determined to find the cause of this terrible 'knock'. i proceeded to try to narrow down where the knock was coming from. To my grateful surprise when looking closer trying to get my ear close to the engine block around 5-6 piston, i saw the sump pan had a moving ripple thing going on. I turned her off and slipped under for a closer look, to find the sump was flattened in a few areas, most probably from all the transport, storage and moving the motor had seen over the last year or so.
So thank fully all is good now i just have to bolt the sump back up and oil her up
Many thanks again for all the great suggestions and help from you guys!
Jim

You have me thinking hard now......do you have a relay piece that pivots through a hole in the block? One linkage goes to that and the other goes to the bellcrank thingy right next to the carby, bolted on top of the manifold. The hand throttle cable also goes to this, but I never had all the bits to hook mine up.
I'll see if I can get a picture from the parts manual.

Jarrod.

Jarrod,
That is sounding about right, i have the rods, so i need to look for the brackets etc,
Yes i was really not sure about the hand throttle, so that makes perfect sense!
The old motor was a bare block when i got the ute so will start looking for brackets
any additional advice much appreciated!
Many Thanks
Jim

Jim
As per Jarrods post, you place timber inside the channel and screw the boards to it.

In my case I used some 100 x 50mm pine lengths inside the channel and made them 50mm longer than the width of the tray so that when the boards were screwed to them, the pine would pull up and be held in place on either side due to the extra length (hope that makes sense). I used synthetic decking for my boards because it doesn't fade, warp or dry out.

Hey Jim,
I have previously tooled around with 'casting' both plastics and alloys, in silicon and sand+plaster molds.
The learning by doing, well having a go was a real kick.
Molding and fabricating that seemingly impossible to find tail light was an 'online' theme, as recall, near ten years ago ?
Crap, is it 2016 and I am that old now !
No more time to type, must get back to tinkering in the shed,
Good Luck
Woody

Hey Jim,
Chuck a photo up of what your throttle linkage setup might look like and I'll see if it matches up with my aa110 setup and I'll show you that if it helps.
Cheers
Rossco