39 inch chassis??Trucks apart from my ERF have it?

Hi all, I do pick some odd orphans to restore that are too old as well as rare to have a spare parts backup. I'm looking for a cheap greasy skid turntable for my ERF to make it into a bogie drive prime mover. I was given a great holland turntable, but after I measured my ERF chassis rails, they were; to my surprise, a huge 1020mm width (39 inches) & yes, this measurement is from the outsides. The Holland mounting plate is not wide enough to overhang the side by more than 5mm (want at least a 1130mm wide mount plate) for typical bolting to added side plates unless I drill into the top of the rails, which I understand is not allowed. So I need to know if any other truck makers had such wide rails, then I'll try find one with a turntable going cheap. Don't worry, I have a 865mm width truck the Holland can fit on.
It will be historic rego, in NSW, but I want it to be able to be kosher to tow, (engineering wise), therefore don't want to drill the tops of the rails.

Also, I have looked & scraped & brushed looking for the chassis number on ERF. Anyone out there know exactly where on chassis I would find it.
Also looking for cheap turntable drilled for 770mm MAN or Scania chassis rails, for my 1968 MAN650F.
Many thanks so far for leads on my projects to Briny & Mammoth, Stephen
PS My new ERF is pictured below for veryone who likes photos. If you see one of these rare beasts too far gone to restore, I need a few parts Should never cut up a complete, restorable truck, even if it is a Bedford.
PS This one lived on a farm in Coolah in Western NSW for the last 10 years until they broke the back diff > Then ripped the front just last month where it got stuck on the low loader when they were pulling it off by putting back axle in a front end loader bucket. It's had more damage in 2009 (incl diff busting) than in the 39yrs it was in Australia before that. In a month, if I hadn't found it, everything but the Cummins NHC250 & 15spd RR would be in the scrap. It was even position close to the scrap pile to make it easier.

Above: if you look ahrd in the cabin pic, despite the whole body being pretty shabby, this is the only truck I've got to date that had an ignition key supplied>
Below: They welded a frame to chassis in spots to make a standard 865mm width false chassis frame to put a tipper on. Note the big spring hanger with those furthest bolts 500mm apart. I know modern big rigs have these but this was in 1965.

The older Atkinsons used a 38" wide chassis with the springs under the rails. I think they used a normal turntable but with a subframe.

Thanks Pete, I will get an Atkinson one day.
I spoke to a retired mechanical engineer today who had another suggestion. He doesn't know who I should ask fto confirm it for NSW legalities. The RTA Engineer may not know, but my old 1965 chassis is 260mm by 90mm, and about 10mm thick steel. He speculated that if it's not heat treated like modern chassis rails, maybe I can legally weld an 865mm frame to it, or maybe even drill through the top of the rails & mount the turntable directly as the Holland size would fit nicely. Top of rails are presently 990mm above ground level so if that means the turnatable would be too low, that would be a deciding factor.
What do people think and who do I need to ask to get it in writing before I drill any holes?

Softy
GuddayM8
Jist my 2 cents worth .......GST free

Has always been a no no to drill holes in the top or bottom of truck chassis rails

Why not put a 12mm (1/2") plate across chassis with HD mounting plate to bolt to chassis where existing holes R
U may have to swap bolts around or buy new ones as they'll need 2 B 12mm longer

Clik here for sum ADR info
www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_...tin/pdf/vsb_06_p.pdf

ButEyeDoSt&2BCorrected

Cya

[ch9787]

SHS - You need to consult the ADR's (Australian Design Regulations) that apply to trucks and their modification. According to the NSW RTA site, you can contact an approved "engineeering signatory" to approve or disapprove any proposed engineering changes.

On the following page of the NSW RTA site, below, have a look at the articles with the heading .. "Engineering signatories" ..

www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_dl1.html

Some of the Atkinsons had the turn table angle mounted so they where flanges in,and about a 40mm gap between the top flange of the chassis and the flange on the angle,that way you can mount a standard width turn table plate.Your other option is to mount the angles normally and use a wider turntable plate.Ussually you would use 125 X 75 X 10 angle,though if your going to mount it with the flanges in you will have to go up to 150 X 90 X 10 or bigger.As for the length of the angles,they angles should be twice the width of the chassis long generallly,though seeing as your chassis is so wide,1800mm long would probobly do it. No holes in the top or bottom flanges of the chassis,no holes within 50mm of a suspension bolt.Google VSB 6,which is the national code of practice for truck modifications,and T2 is the code for Turntable fitting,if you can,t find it on Google E mail me and I'll E mail the info.

SHS - go to Golden Oldies web site, technical page, which takes you directly to the NSW RTA rules on turntable mounting. As Cam suggests I would be using 10mm angle turned inwards. Crinkle plates can be bought through your your truck parts supplier but cost so a flat plate may be the way to go.

Thanks Mammoth & Cam.
I actually hadn't thought of mounting the angles turned in, & higher than the 5mm min to accomodate the bolts used to mount the turntable on, but that would work well. If i had to redrill the angles I got with the Holland fifth wheel, the VSI says just to get new ones drilled, so unless the bolts holes match perfectly (unlikely) that's what I'll do. I looked up the www.goldenoldiestruckclub.com/Technical%20Bulletins.htm site & the VSI23 that relates to the rules. I can comply with those rules. That fixes the ERF turntable without needing a completely new base plate. ;D ;D ;D
Many thanks. Anyone with a cheap turnatable or 770mm width chassis rails, for the MAN, or know of a recked ERF bogie drive for the back diff like mine above, please let me know.
Thanks, Stephen

I'd weld up all the holes in the flanges of the angles and the turntable base plate and start again.If you make sure you put all the bolts at even distances apart,then if you have to move the turntable you've only got to drill 2 new holes.They are usually set the centre of the turntable about 250mm forword of the centre of the bogie.

SHS - I 'm a little puzzled with your numbers here. 1020mm is over 40", not 39". Were you reading the metric, or the imperial side of the tape??

I have a nice 3" Jost turntable that I'd let go for $200 .. but it's on the Left Coast. It measures 965mm wide across the mounting plate, which is 38" ..