Metal stitching
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Yep, the connection does look a bit feral, and if ya wanna get really professional, sandwiching the wire between a couple of nuts, will definitely give you a foolproof and perfect connection.the bit eye'm not rapt in
is u're yello jumper wire
Looks like sumthing eye'd do on a saturday night
LOL
me thinkz a heavier cable sandwiched between a cupla washers n nuts, az in lok nuts
I was more interested in getting the show up and running here, and the time gets away when you have to hunt down all these little bits/n/pieces. The connection is working, that's all that matters.
I cleaned the threads up so bright metal showed where the wire was twitched on .. and 10 amps current will soon make a connection, when the power is switched on.
You can see within a short time if the current is flowing properly, as bubbles are produced fairly evenly from the item being cleaned. If the bubbling isn't even, the current flow isn't even.
If you want more info on washing soda electrolysis, Google "using washing soda for electrolysis", and there's quite a number of sites giving opinions and descriptions of the process.
The most comprehensive website I've found, is the following site, which gives a good description of the electrolysis process, and how the two types of rust are removed or converted.
The only point of disagreement I have with this website is the strength of solution used. He advocates a 10% solution, but you most definitely do NOT need a 10% solution strength.
About .5% to 1% solution is more than adequate for all situations.
"Rust Removal Using Electrolysis", by Andrew Westcott .. myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
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W H O O P Z
Guess we cookd it tooo long
spose it could B shippd back to the east in lotsa MT cans now
LOL
Sorry to frightrern the BeJezuz outa U Mammoth
Orllz well th@ endz well
Cya
[ch9786]
OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST
There's more WORTH in KENWORTH
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You can't destroy items by "cooking" for too long .. but you can destroy them by incorrect polarity.
At this stage, I have no more pics .. it got too late last night to get any more.
We still have a area of concern, with some chunks of residual heavy scale.
I've been examining the coolant passageways carefully for residual scale areas .. and doing some chiselling with a long screwdriver (thank God for Chinese mild-steel screwdrivers, that you can bend in all kinds of shapes, to fit the hole! ) .. and I may have to give the cylinders another shock treatment with some more hydrochloric acid to get the residual scale.
These cylinders are an absolute nightmare, for the most scale, in the thickest layers, that I've ever seen in any engine.
Scale doesn't only interfere with welding, it's an insulator of heat transfer. Caterpillar state that 3mm of scale thickness (on cylinder walls) will reduce heat transfer by up to 40%.
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I suppose we can only guess?
***********&&---Bruce99---&&***********
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Mammoth, if you want to freight me the head with the hole in it, I'll fix it for you good and proper, with some of my magic Magna 770 rods, and it will probably take me no more than an hour.
Cheers - Ron.
Been a long hour, LOL.
Mammoth, have you got an update?
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Trevor
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Mammoth ... if I can ask a punny question: "What state is it in?"Mammoth, if you want to freight me the head with the hole in it, I'll fix it for you good and proper, with some of my magic Magna 770 rods, and it will probably take me no more than an hour.
Cheers - Ron.
Been a long hour, LOL.
Mammoth, have you got an update?
1948 Fordson E83W 10/10 pickup
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