Brakes, brakes, brakes (C1600)

Be very careful about pushing the pedal to the floor.

Old cast iron brake cylinders will have rust and debris at the end of the cylinder and the seals will cut up as the seals pass over the rust.

Speaking from experience, it only takes one press.

If it has two cylinders in each front wheel, they are quite difficult to bleed without a power bleeder.

Jarrod.

I would check the adjustments all round first then bleed again. Something I did a long time back was to put low air pressure into the master cylinder and bled it that way. Be careful to keep an eye on the level of fluid in the reserviour.
Have a loof at how the brake lines run and look for "S" bends and "U" turns that then face down towards wheel cylinders. This is a likely place for air to get trapped.

Thanks everyone.

I have confused myself on the adjustments on the rear wheels. Does anyone know off the top of their head? I wrote down on the lower adjuster I need to turn the little wheel down and on the upper I need to turn the little wheel up. Don’t feel like pulling it all apart to find out.

I think I have adjusted them right out but still have the long pedal stroke.

New brake cylinders front and rear on passenger and cleaned out drums and pads. Stops brilliantly and doesn’t pull to left anymore. Just got to get them bled/adjusted correctly.

Instead of flushing gallons of costly fluid,I always found it best to get the brakes working ,then simply crack each bleeder to let out a few bubbles of air,every time you use the truck......The brakes will quickly be working 100%........I might add,when the shoes are off ,its always best to check each adjuster and make sure the correct one is in each position.This will save a lot of time when the drums and wheels are on,especially if you note down which way each adjuster goes ,and preferably stick a copy to the inside of the cab .

just jack each wheel up and start adjusting .... spin the wheel a bit as you go and if it starts to bind up your going the right way then just back it off a click or two til they are just ever so slightly touching

I did this for rego (NSW pink slip) so need them ship shape. I did write it down but think I stuffed up.

I’ll jack it up and do it that way

Thanks

What werkhorse said goes for every vehicle with hydraulic brakes, as far as I know. The linings and hoses have to be OK first. When pumping the pedal to push air out, very careful that fluid in the master cylinder does not get too low. You really need a helper to open and close the bleeder on each wheel to tell you when to push the pedal down and when to let it up. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder after about every two pumps or you run the risk of letting more air into the system..

Years ago, I bought a fairly cheap kit that allows you to do it by yourself but first time I used it, the hose blew off the bleeder. I threw the thing away!

If you have no offsider, an old tailgate strut between seat and pedal works well.
Jarrod.

When you adjust brakes, one way is easy and the other is harder. The harder direction is the correct way to adjust the brakes up. This is only on brakes that don't have self adjusters. HTH