1924 Chevrolet Buckboard

Not so many vehicles have leaf springs today, but of those that do, many are fitted with nylon type material between the ends of each leaf. Happens on trucks as well, so who knows.

Studebaker passenger vehicles went from greased rear springs to nylon (?) inserts around 1950. I need to replace the inserts in my '51.

Jarrod.

Having said that the earliest shock absorbers were knee type with friction discs I happened to look at a 1913 trade magazine, and guess what - hydraulic shock absorbers. It would pretty strong bet that the passenger vehicles mentioned had shock absorbers.

My chevy workshop manual mentions using graphite or grease between the spring leaves, was the same with my Dodge Brothers manual as well. I have fitted a brand new distributor, and am still mucking about trying to get it to run. Has good oil pressure, but the pot metal oil pump, and brush end generator housing will need replacement as they are shewing signs of sadness.

My 1929 Chevrolet Ute has leaf springs all around and has SINGLE ACTING hydraulic shock absorbers on the front. None on the rear. I think the linkage from shocker to chassis was originally a leather strap. I do not have a workshop manual in the modern sense but my handbook (and I don't recall the generic Chev manual for the first few years of six cylinder Chev's) mentioning lubrication of spring leaves.

I have got all the lights working, replaced a running board, rear window, a couple of rails on the head board. Still waiting for the ignitor, I stuffed it somehow and it has an internal short, should have it back later this week.

I dare say that you may not have damaged it rather than its insulating mica washers were faulty or dirty and needed replacing anyway. So in the end it more than likely had to be done for reliability.

Still waiting for the new distributor, apparently the main shaft was worn and should have been replaced first up. I will make my final trip from WA to WA in July or August so will likely pickup the distributor and coil then. The new oil pump and brush end housing were waiting for me at mothers' so they are now in the workshop, ready for fitting up when necessary. I will have to get the output shaft on the steering box rebushed, or likely the original bush will be bored out and bushed to size. Will be a few photos in August cheers

Have now got her running now, brand new distributor, generator turns out has new windings etc. she drives and rides well. Gearbox amazingly quiet, and she is pretty quick to. Motor is in good order . Have ordered 3 new tyres, tubes, rust bands. Also some new split rims for a set of balloon tyres i have. Finished up with two brand new distributors. When she finally work up with help from my mate Dale, . She starts off best in second, bottom is a crawler gear, cone clutch is surprisingly kind, no kangarooing ! She is fast to. Will rewire her, fit indicators and stop lights. Will have to bush the output shaft on the steering box. Generator must have been rebuilt , like new inside and pumps our 15 amps. Have a new brush end for the generator, will fit that, have also fitted the new oil pump, delivers 10 psi to all the troughs. Motor runs well no nasty knocks, generally starts first hit on the starter. Local chap will make a new exhaust system, will use the original engine pipe, . Found a missing speedo drive cog, so the rebuilt speedo works a treat. Still sorting out the vacuum tank, might have got it going ok, they normally work real well for me. She should be on the road by the end of the year .

Heelerau,
Great to hear of your progress with the Chev. You are certainly working through all the problems. Indicators and stop lights are certainly needed in today's traffic but be sure to find some that look right on an old vehicle. Please do not fit the ugly Japanese motorcycle ones on stalks. They look terrible on an oldie. You should be able to fit unobtrusive small lights to the front, maybe under the headlights. Failing that put amber globes in small parking lights on top of the guards. For the rear, there are plenty of circular amber and red lights that look like reflectors until they are switched on. For the stop lights you will probably have to fit a modern stoplight switch behind the brake pedal, You should be able to find a suitable one at a wrecking yard.
I am gathering ideas and parts to fit hazard flashers to my old vehicles. They will operate the turn indicators like a modern car and when not working will not be visible from outside the vehicle. Once I have it all sorted out, I will put the details up on this forum although the job is a rather low priority.