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Fargo Kew info
3 years 2 months ago - 3 years 2 months ago #232894
by cobbadog
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
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Replied by cobbadog on topic Fargo Kew info
Reading through those specifications that Grandad kindly posted reminded me of a question that confuses me at times. Valve clearances to be set when hot. How do you get them hot to set them before a start up. Why are the specifications not listed for setting them cold? It makes more sense to me that way. Surely the engineers that work all these things out already know how much things will expand when hot.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
Last edit: 3 years 2 months ago by cobbadog.
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3 years 2 months ago #232895
by JOHN.K.
Replied by JOHN.K. on topic Fargo Kew info
Valve clearances in side valves hardly alter ,so doesnt really matter hot or cold.
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3 years 2 months ago #232896
by werkhorse
For a new engine ... Just set them up cold ... Run the engine to temp then set them hot.
You might Laugh at me because I'm different, I laugh at you because you're all the same
Replied by werkhorse on topic Fargo Kew info
Reading through those specifications that Grandad kindly posted reminded me of a question that confuses me at times. Valve clearances to be set when hot. How do you get them hot to set them before a start up. Why are the specifications not listed for setting them cold? It makes more sense to me that way. Surely the engineers that work all these things out already know how much things will expand when hot.
For a new engine ... Just set them up cold ... Run the engine to temp then set them hot.
You might Laugh at me because I'm different, I laugh at you because you're all the same
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3 years 2 months ago - 3 years 2 months ago #232897
by Lang
Replied by Lang on topic Fargo Kew info
This is from Charlie Talbert the Dodge Flat 6 guru in USA.
If everything has been renewed & properly lapped into their seats with the tappet screws faced flat, .010" intake & .013" exhaust is a good COLD set up. The actual hot setting you need is .009" intake - .011" exhaust, the cold settings will tighten to the proper hot setting as the engine warms to normal temp due to heat expansion. These cold settings are also good for use in engines that have been run many miles & simply need a valve clearance adjustment when performing normal maintenance. If the tappet screws have not been faced flat, you will need to set up COLD at least .001" tighter on both intake & exhaust. The reason for this is it is normal for the face of the tappet screws to indent slightly, this is normal wear. When this happens a ridge around the outer edge of the screw face where the valve stem never hits becomes very evident. When adjustments are measured with a feeler gauge, it is on top of that ridge instead of where the valve stem actually contacts the screw face, thus the adjustment will be wider than the feeler gauge says because of the indent. In engines with a LOT of wear or indent in the screw surface, it may be necessary to bring the COLD adjustment as tight as .008" intake - 011" exhaust, but in most cases only .001" tighter will take care of it & produce a good running non-ticking set up. Remember these guidelines are for engines that are in good condition as far as the valve train is concerned. Ticking can also come from worn tappet bores in the block which allow the tappets to be pushed side ways slightly instead of straight up by the cam lobes. This condition will also produce a ticking noise that can be mistaken for loose valve clearance adjustment. If an engine has excessive wear in the tappet bores, the ticking noise will continue no matter what the adjustment. Also remember that a too tight adjustment can cause leaking valves & eventually burned valves. When your engine is started after adjustments are completed, it should be warmed up to normal operating temp. If all looks & sounds OK you should be set, go ahead with closing everything up. If you feel further fine adjustment is needed, let the engine COOL DOWN THOROUGHLY before readjusting, always remember you are working with COLD settings.
If everything has been renewed & properly lapped into their seats with the tappet screws faced flat, .010" intake & .013" exhaust is a good COLD set up. The actual hot setting you need is .009" intake - .011" exhaust, the cold settings will tighten to the proper hot setting as the engine warms to normal temp due to heat expansion. These cold settings are also good for use in engines that have been run many miles & simply need a valve clearance adjustment when performing normal maintenance. If the tappet screws have not been faced flat, you will need to set up COLD at least .001" tighter on both intake & exhaust. The reason for this is it is normal for the face of the tappet screws to indent slightly, this is normal wear. When this happens a ridge around the outer edge of the screw face where the valve stem never hits becomes very evident. When adjustments are measured with a feeler gauge, it is on top of that ridge instead of where the valve stem actually contacts the screw face, thus the adjustment will be wider than the feeler gauge says because of the indent. In engines with a LOT of wear or indent in the screw surface, it may be necessary to bring the COLD adjustment as tight as .008" intake - 011" exhaust, but in most cases only .001" tighter will take care of it & produce a good running non-ticking set up. Remember these guidelines are for engines that are in good condition as far as the valve train is concerned. Ticking can also come from worn tappet bores in the block which allow the tappets to be pushed side ways slightly instead of straight up by the cam lobes. This condition will also produce a ticking noise that can be mistaken for loose valve clearance adjustment. If an engine has excessive wear in the tappet bores, the ticking noise will continue no matter what the adjustment. Also remember that a too tight adjustment can cause leaking valves & eventually burned valves. When your engine is started after adjustments are completed, it should be warmed up to normal operating temp. If all looks & sounds OK you should be set, go ahead with closing everything up. If you feel further fine adjustment is needed, let the engine COOL DOWN THOROUGHLY before readjusting, always remember you are working with COLD settings.
Last edit: 3 years 2 months ago by Lang.
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3 years 2 months ago #232911
by cobbadog
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
Replied by cobbadog on topic Fargo Kew info
Of course without a cold setting you do have to set them cold then run the engine until up to temp then set again. Why not list a cold setting that once it reaches running temp it is then correct as mentioned in Langs post.
The engineers must know how m uch expansion will happen between a cold and run temp. To me it is a crazy description on how to set them up.
The engineers must know how m uch expansion will happen between a cold and run temp. To me it is a crazy description on how to set them up.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
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3 years 2 months ago - 3 years 2 months ago #232914
by Lang
Replied by Lang on topic Fargo Kew info
The WW2 Army workshop manuals on the Dodges recommend setting the tappets with the engine running. Apart from having to remove the engine bay side panel and likely the front wheel, good luck on that with a Dodge manifold to escape a badly burnt arm!
Last edit: 3 years 2 months ago by Lang.
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3 years 2 months ago #232917
by Brocky45
Replied by Brocky45 on topic Fargo Kew info
There is an excellent article on rebuilding the Flathead Dodge 6's in the Most recent March / April issue of ATHS Wheels of Time.. I just got mine this week, so God only knows how long it will take the slow boat to get Down Under???
The following user(s) said Thank You: PaulFH, Tassie Dan
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