Brake foot valve plumbing - please explain?

ay bretto..
with ya word doc....
print it then scan it ... or save it as a picture,,
upload it to photo buck or whever you load the pics to for here,,,
does that help?
chocs

OK, looks like a work around to use the E6 on a single circuit - by taking the supply from the top down to the bottom it's using one supply to cover both primary and secondary parts of the valve.

Everything else makes sense. I'd guess that you have a workable solution. I'll leave it to the experienced spanner wranglers to say whether it's ok for the long term and whether it's legal.

Guess you've had pretty ordinary braking for so long that it's just a bit of a surprise now that everything is working as it should.

Cheers.

TRB Man
Sme again

yep
Wot chocs sez
OR
when the bit u wanna show us, iz all on screen, do a screen capture by hittin the PRINT SCREEN key just up Nth of the numerical key pad
then open MSPAINT
Clik EDIT
Clik PASTE
trim the fat off the pic n save as a jpg

There U go
Clear az Mud

But U could also take a happy snap of the critter to
Cya
[ch9787]

Hmmm, not easy to do what swishy and chocs has suggested, that don't work on this compooter.
Best option would be to take a piccy and put that up, but that ain't easy either as the camera & scanner & cables is with the missus in Gosford and I'm 900km away on the Gold Coast.

I think Jimbo is pretty close to the money; that valve had been on the truck for a lot of years - way before I got the truck and by the looks of it plenty of years before that. It wasn't the original one on there, not unless I bought a Mack (that was the sticker and part number on the one I took off).

But the prognosis is close; the stoppers have always had issues - always felt like one axle was working harder than the others, and my thoughts were the steer axle was doing way more work than the drives. This was brought home when the Dunlop SP350's were 90% worn out in 28,000km. They are still on there at the moment but they only have maybe 1500km left before the tread wear indicator is level with the remaining rubber. They ain't scrubbed, just worn out dead even all the way across.

Now with the new valve in there, although plumbed up the same as it was, the stoppers just seem really touchy - like really touchy. The obvious reason is that the new valve isn't full of years of crap like the one I took off could have been. I don't seem to be getting tyre rippling on the steer tyres like I have had a few months ago (by rippling I mean like what you find on a racing slick that has just been used in a race), and as stated earlier the drum temperatures all seem consistently hot.

So maybe it is just the nut behind the wheel

What I was trying to determine is if the thing is put together right or wrong - and that is just not easy to do. Obviously nobody likes driving something that doesn't "feel" right, and I really don't want to put on a brand new set of steers and have them flog out in 30,000km again.

On BigCam's pictures, he looks to have a similar valve but his valve has many more plugs in it than mine - I have only one plug.

And the worst part is that I just don't trust the two clowns that are down this way on the coast that suggested the whole thing was wrong; one of the clowns said quite simply that I should have one inlet and one outlet, cut off all the rest cause ya don't need them. Not getting that warm fuzzy feeling from them.

Might just have to leave it as it is, and start peeking under other Road Bosses when I see em..
Bretto

Around 1980 they went to dual circuit with the pendulum pedal.

Bretto, don't like the "two clowns" recommendations!!!! Air Brake Services in Archerfield look like a more knowledgeable mob near you.

From what you describe as your prior experience it makes sense that the foot valve may have been causing the steer to do all the braking.

Given your description of the piping the steer and drive are being supplied from separate halves of the valve - that is what would be the primary and secondary in a dual system. So if the valve was all gummed up only one half may have been working fully.

With the proper E3 valve for a single circuit, if it's gummed up all the braking would be affected as both steer and drive are fed from the same part of the valve.

Subject to any comments from the experienced spanner wranglers I reckon you're ok. Give it a few days and the right foot will adjust to a finer touch and you're enjoying proper stoppers.

Cheers.

Thanks Jimbo, appreciate it
Bretto

Spose U could do a pressure test

lotsa stuff n around to do it
U'd need a pocket full of plugs
fit an air gauge to the supply side n C wot B the max pressure reached with full head of PSI air
then fit the supply to the foot valve n check each port for pressure under brake application
Cya
[ch9787]

And just for the record, Bigcam's looks like an E3.

Now the easy stuff is sorted back to you're 'puter issues