Chamberlain 3380.... not B

Old thread question.

My neighbour is looking for a tractor to slash his level 10 acre block (just heavy grass) and has been looking at a Chamberlain 3380, fairly straight and seems to run Ok 6,700 hours. $3,800

What are the expert thoughts for a tractor that will not do 100 hours a year.

Lang

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Should be OK lang, I'd think.

There's a jack shaft up underneath between the 2 gearboxs that everyone forgets to grease (Or doesn't know about) & they'll fly to Bits & cause some grief from time to time..

Dieseldog or Mrsmack would know more than I about them ..

The thing to keep in mind is that parts are getting hard to get. Engine stuff is available through John Deere and drivetrain bits can be sourced through wreckers but linkage parts are few and far between. Chamberlains are really a drawbar tractor and the three point linkage was an option, which is why there is not a lot of linkage stuff available.

The things to check are the driveshafts, the TA and the rear axle bearings. The TA should pull strongly when shifted from low to high; it should “snap” into gear, but if it is sluggish, it’s a sign of internal leakage with a major failure on the horizon. The rear axle bearings can be check by simply grabbing ahold of the back tyres and pushing the tractor side to side. If there’s play in the bearings, you’ll feel it. Make sure the driveshaft uni’s have no play and have been greased. They are known to break and take out pumps. The other thing to keep an eye on is the engine coolant. Keep it in good condition as JDs are known for worm holes in liners and water in the sump.

Other than that, if the tractor is in good shape, that seems like a fair price to pay.

Lang I paid a lot more 3 or 4 years ago, 75 hp JD reliability. Probably a bit over size in HP and tractor for slashing 10 acres, the 3pl gave me problems .... but didnt show up on test as the 3pl oil needed to get hot before it got less and less responsive. Just a little tiny spring in a relief valve, but made of unobtainem and I had an expert spend several days just to work out that it was the problem and how to fix it. Steering pitman or idler forget which also get chopped out easily. It can turn in its own length, very short and stubby but got those extra big back tyres for traction and stability.

Some of these had a retro/aftermarket fitted 3pl, much better apparently and they had full down pressure too.
Mine replaced a much loved and worn out 564 inter... a step up for me and happy with it.
I would have thought a Massey 135 or similar size tractor a better choice for a ten acre tractor.

I reckon 60+hp and a 7' slasher would be good for 10 acres....would still take 4 hours at least.,assuming its open,no trees to go round.......I bought a Champion without a PTO,the only one I could find cheap had flogged out splines,its still slashing the back yard 40 years later......I did slop everything with pure moly on assembly though.I bought a spare tractor about 15 years ago just in case......never been used.....The old slasher has rusted pretty good(or bad) though....... and the JD motors are wet sleeve,make sure ther is green water in the rad......prob a 359 .Parts for the motor are as cheap as Perkins parts from the aftermarket places.

I was thinking the Chamberlain was a bit of an overkill but would be nice in Qld weather with the AC but apparently that is the "only thing" that does not work.

He used to have an old grey Fergie with a 4 foot slasher. Poor little bugger could only go slow and it took 8 hours. I did it for him a few times but was probably over it by the end of the day. For the last couple of years he has been paying $500 a time to have it slashed 4 times a year. I think I might be responsible for pointing out what he could have owned for the grass cutting money.

I have just found a newer Leyland 270 (65hp?) in really good nick with new tyres and a brand new 6 ft slasher for $5,ooo and will have a look at that.

I appreciate your comments.

I suppose it is like someone handing out glasses of water on a hot day. Everybody gets the same in the end but some can gulp it down and others have to drink it through a narrow straw.

Lang

80 series Chamberlains are ok but not a patch on the 670's and 6100'ss for toughness and economy
I always seem to have no drama getting parts for the 3380
Hydraulics can be a pain in the butt as very few people know much about them

Leylands arent bad execpt the big ones (285's)
70 hp and smaller are pretty good jiggers although I think parts are getting thin on the ground and the ass end is the same as a Nuffield
The syncro's are the best of the bunch and the last number is a 2 on these as in 272 and 262 etc
Although the linkage hydraulics are good the arms tend to break and not many are left now
Also the the level adjuster lets go from time to time and goes off like a gun when it fails
I think this only happens with bigger implements

80 series Chamberlains came standard from the factory with rust so finding one with a good cab is getting harder

Paul

A fella named Scott wanted some info about my repair, he asked on hcvc facebook having read here, so I suggested he come back here to ask what it is that he wants to know.

Old 3380 is going fine and dandy...... thanks to diesel dog and others, lots a green water, and occasional grease.

People are always telling me about the shaft between the gearbox and back drive flying apart............as I recall ,I checked mine about 30 years ago ,and a bolt was coming out of one of the unis......did that up ,and havent checked since.................still going ,so I reckon it will outlast me.....not long to go now.