Ahh the mismatch bolt trick, my F350 is Canadian assembled. It is a dual cab, front door hinge bolts are Imperial and rear are Metric. Also various other bolts were a mix as well. It was a fun job reassembling the cab and wondering why bolts would not thread in properly.
There is many unusual threads out there
BA is a electrical thread used on electric stuff
And there is meteric electrical thread as well
Instrumentation has its own threads
The best story I have heard was near the end of WW2 American Super Fortresses landed in China after a bombing raid on Japan and Stalin confiscated the planes and ordered exact copies to be made of the planes
Problem was Russia was metric and the US wasnt
Stalin wouldn't let the builders use metric equivalents so it tool years for the fitst planes to be built as they had to make drill bits and taps and dies
Sorry Sarg, completely off topic
Great job to get the wheel back on
On later IH tractors it says to drive around and jump on the brakes to seat the wedges
This does help but even montgs later I can still find movement
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
I read years ago, in an English technical magazine that French metric was different to everyone else's metric.
Somewhere else I read that BA stood for British Admiralty threads. Probably developed when the British admiralty used wooden ships with sails, before steam power was invented. Yes, they are used on electrical stuff. They are numbered 1ba, 2ba, etc. with 1ba being the smallest. I do not know if the size is related to any measurement or they "Just growed" like Topsy.
I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,
I been worrying about the ancient tyres on my Chamberlain Champion......rear wheel weighs 1/2 ton with the big cast iron rim........at the sandblasters ,the tyre service wouldnt take the wheel off,it had to be on the ground and a crane standing by,just to lift the rim half out of the tyre......if I get a flat ,I will probably have to scrap the tractor,and get something smaller.......at the sandblasters ,I worked on the wheels single handed with just a forklift......that was 10 years ago now,and Im getting old.
BA thread is British Association.........its a swiss clock and watch thread adapted to smaller sizes......its basically metric,but the only whole number thread is 0 BA,which is 6mm x 1 mm pitch......as the numbers get bigger ,the size gets smaller,and generally,sizes used were the even numbers ,such as 2BA,a common small thread.....Lucas used BA threads in most of their electrics,sometimes the odd sizes such as 3 BA in magneto pickups,and in the mag points screw.
Dont leave out NPT yet another fun thread to play with.
I wonder once you get rolling if turning around in a tight circle will help move the wheel inwards for you? Might be best done with someone watching closely.
As for changing tyres and having worked with BFT in a rural area tractor tyres on in the field was a regular thing for the fitter. They would rarely remove the wheel, just take the tyre off while the wheel remained on the tractor. This was done for a puncture or a tyre replacement so it can be done on yours.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
I can handle the wheel without the centre, I had the other side off a good few years ago, It didnt budge initially so I got Beaurepairs mobile service out, they charged me I think $100 for about two hours of sweat and one hour of travel but didnt budge the wheel, I stuck a couple of jacks between the frame and the wheel and would bash it with a sledge hammer or crow bar when I walked past.... took a couple of months but finally let go (busted an hydraulic jack in the process) rim and tyre were a challenge to get on the ute but lift a bit, stick something under it, lift a bit more...
Tyre joint took ten minutes and $20 to put the replacement tyre on.... he felt sorry for me ....(he said I did him a good turn late one saturday night.... I didnt remember but he did)
Swish, saved for posterity is a great thing.....
Not sure about the wheel relocating, because the wedges have gone full distance, they centre bolt is holding them in that place and the wheel bolts are holding the wheel where it is.... if I loosen everything it may slip in but unless the wheel squeezes the wedges back, she will stay where she is I think.
Need to hear the mighty (small) 4 cyl petrol putter, make its putting noise before I get any more excited.
Watch this space.
Sarge the problem with not having the wheel hard up against the seal sleeve is that it relies on the wheel to hold the sleeve and bearing in position on the axle and that in turn stops the axle from floating in and out more in than out if you get my drift
If you look at an exploded view of the axle assembly the bullgear is bolted to the inside end of the axle which holds the inner bearing it then seats in the housing that stops the axle moving outward then the outside bearing goes onto the axle and into the housing with the sleeve and wheel to hold it onto the axle boss which in turn locates the bearing tight in the housing so there isn’t any end play
Sorry if that’s a bit of a longwinded explanation