I appreciate the interest and advice.
Bluey, is there any difference between the sleeve being held by the wedges instead of the v wheel, they both push on the sleeve. The sleeve is locked into the spline by a tag so there is no friction. Just contact pressure.
Sarge sorry to scare the begesus out of you I should have looked at the pictures a bit closer
Just went back and looked at the last one and blew it up,first time I looked at it I thought there was spline showing between the wheel and the sleeve but when I get me specs on I see it’s the wedges up the sleeve so ALL GOOD
All good, thanks mate. Job on hold while I play make hay.....then there is shift hay followed by stack hay.... I missed make ay shed a couple of months back so it will have to go in against the shearing shed. I better not have any green bales.
It would be an interesting run from here in the mighty ACCO with a load of hay..... but I would be scared witless that we would not get past the next white post.... all the way there....
I feel for you.... no pleasure at all in drought country....
well the pain is almost over, only around 160 bales left to cart, and i got a neighbour to roll up poorest hay in the next paddock. So with a morning off today due to a late rain shower, what will we do?
get the loader going. ( to shift the round bales). changed and or replaced the fluids, stole the tractor battery and hooked the Colorado (14.2 constant off the alternator gets the starter wizzing easily) up for a jump. Choke on and Pppputtphutterphut phut.
smoke cleared when the choke went off and steady purrrrrr.
then to do the job.
And the visible wedge inside the sleeve, the other side has a wider sleeve.... didnt notice until looking down from the pilots chair.... no crunching grinding or banging for the little excursion to collect that bale. Very happy.
And I didnt deliberately hide it but I have a similar problem to Cobba... no not that sort of problem.... crap in the fuel tank, so running off a little engine tank jammed in the loader frame. That will have to go as the muffler is shot at the bottom, about 10 inches from the filler cap. And for the purists the battery box is non standard, the original is bolted to the Diff about where the PTO should stick out. This one is on one of the access steps to climb up to the chair. Keeps ya nimble getting on and off.
I am not sure in my old age if I discussed this problem previously, but anyway, a new spin on the problem. As part of my anti virus work, I finally fitted a Mitsubishi alternator to the super loader. usual swearing and FB hammer, the brackets a bit agricultural but adjustable and it works. My dilemma, the Alt came out of a datsun I scrapped years ago and was working fine. I assume rotation direction is normal/same for the datsun and the inter, three wires, B to battery, L to light and R to ignition switch. I guessed.
Switch on, and power at all 3 posts but the L post is much dimmer, voltage check 1.2 but 12.3 everywhere else. Start up, running nicely, belt straight, voltage check bouncing around 13.5 but flicking higher and lower. The light still not on. Switch off, no noticeable heat anywhere. Repeat, with same result. Only at fast idle.
Should I try something else, why is there output from Alternator without exciter light, should output be nice steady number on the multimeter.
Is this a simple case of virus infection, is it likely to cause any harm if I continue to use it. I have been using the loader without one for 20 years. Just finally getting some urgent jobs done.
Fuel tank sorted as well, still a heavy bastard to drive but she's all mine and does all those big jobs I want done.
Would like to know why one of the main rams does not go all the way home one day..... one day.
This is why they call it "electrickery" the bloody stuff will drive you mad. I had an issue with the conversion a previous owner did with an alternator on a tractor and it would charge but it took a while to kick in. Asked our friendly electrickery man and he said to add the ignition light (excitor) to the system to make it work as designed, so I did. Now it sat still for a few months until last week end I started it up and the amp gauge was tossing out 15amps but in a very short time it came back down to around 5amps so it appears to be working. While your waiting for a sensible reply try good old Youtube for some more clues but I think it will help to have an excitor lamp in the system.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
Might be just a bit of dirt or corrosion on the slip rings ...assuming it has them .....some jap alternators are whats called brushless ,which means the rotor is just a fancy set of iron bits,no windings.,and both windings are stationary......In which case I dunno .....give me a good old Lucas genny any day...Or a CAV ,even better.