Just my two bobs worth, this came up here some time ago and it was noted that if you have the CORRECT wattage pilot lamp in the exciter wiring, seems to be the ticket. I stuffed around with LED pilot lights, differeing wattage lamps, finally came up with a ONE WATT pilot lamp for a LUCAS alternator. Only very small wattage, I know, but enough to get the juice flowing. Immediately upon starting, amp gauge shoots up around the 30 odd amp, at 14 volts, within five minutes of high idle, amp gauge drops back to about 2 amp, voltmeter stays the same. Just saying, works for me.
The L (light) terminal on the alternator is the 'earth' for the dash light. So the other side of the dash light should be power from the ignition switch. When the alternator is charging there is 12 volts either side of the globe and it goes out. HTH
I'd rather have tools that I don't need, than not have the tools I do need.
Bloody trickery is right. No good doing it southbound way, at least no light, plugged my way back in and the Damm light came on when it was running but went off when stopped. Checked voltages, all over the place numbers like 37 83 6 3 21 18, contantly flashing. Actually stayed that way with just the earth lead on the negative side of the battery. No active connection. Disconnected all the leads to the alternator still weird readings.
Back to the old way, just run the battery flat while I get my digging done.
Maybe the alternator is crook.....anyhoo ,doesnt your machine have a magneto?......maggy and armstrong starter,no need for lekky s......I used to cheat and use a big air drill to start engines ,I got IR air drills so big you cant lift them....Used the smallest to start a 4cyl Gardner in the Harman.....starts any other diesel with a crank dog too.
John, wash ya mouth out, the loverley loader ain't that ancient, though it might look it. In any case the front end of the crank is driving the hydraulic pump, so no crank and no Maggy .
And now of course my multi meter is cooked. Shows various readings without the leads or with them. And the light isn't working again.clearly no charge, needed a tow start out of the puddle dam I was digging.
I have 4 multi meters in the shed, 2 I can trust the other 2 I use for loaning out. Not really but I find it hard tot oss the buggas.
The last one I bought was a pricey one that also meaures capacitence for testing capacitors/condensors and so far I fell it reads correctly. The cheap ones are crap.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
Well, it's whinge time again. Needed to use the loader to lift the bulk bag of super onto the ute to fill the combine. Flat steering tyre, been fine for 20 years why flat now?.... leaking at valve stem, bugger. Wheel off, into truck tyre fixer collect next day..... yep got it, tyre was rooted, good half worn 16 inch junk tyre supplied, get home,re fitted, fueled up, lets go. RRRRRR. RRRRRR. RRrrrr. rrrrrrr. Jumpstart, WHIZZZ WHIZZZZZZZ WHIZZZZZ Aerostart . Rrrrrr Nothing. Check petrol, carbide full,choke on choke off still nothing.
Check power at coil 12.8 what about other side.... a reading but not 12 what should it be. Did that dodgy alternator trial cook the coil or something?....
So where to from here. 5 deg and rain so maybe so jobs in the shed. (Mrs Sarge bagged the super off and loaded it onto the ute then came and filled the combine )
Is there a simple test other than a spark plug at the end of the lead to test the power trail after the pos. side of the coil?
Thanks PDU, very generous, but no use. It's an up draft carbide, your tin would need a pump, but I have fuel, I can get it to dribble out. I used the gas as a fool proof test for the electrics. I ain't got no spark, not like you.
It was running fine last week..... can lack of air in the tyre suck the tricity out of the spark plugs.