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TOPIC: International A40 - 1 Superloader

International A40 - 1 Superloader 27 Feb 2016 22:03 #167558

  • Sarge :-X
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Had a look at my parts catalog, it shows what appears to be a one piece "insert, Taper Clamp" it also shows it was held by studs and nuts, mine has since changed over to bolts.... so now the Ruckus in my town is over I can put some pusher bolts in to help the puller and some more "Loob.."

reports to follow.....
Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 28 Feb 2016 14:30 #167579

  • wouldyou
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Sarge,
If you can get taps it would be best to start with a taper one to get the thread started square then go through with a bottoming one.
Some hacksaw cuts along a bolt of the correct thread pitch could clean them up, this takes time as the bolt has to be removed frequently to get the gunk out of the saw cuts.
David.

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 29 Feb 2016 15:40 #167616

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thanks for the advice David...
Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 05 Mar 2016 21:41 #167831

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Eff it..... :(

3/4 unf bolts bought to do the magic with, spare one cut to clean the threads out.... run them bolts in, not too much effort, then one keeps on turning (the other one went in hand turned put a bit of load on with the spanner and went to the other one... turn turn turn (great name for a song) ....
I cant tell but the hole just might be slightly stripped, bolt threads are undamaged. Unless it is not 3/4 unf.... it's not metric is there a thread/bolt size that is half a poofteenth fatter that 3/4 unf???

I put the borrowed puller back on, and have created a nice boomerang and chewed the top of the shaft up.... still no movement...

Eff it... :angry:
Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 05 Mar 2016 21:46 #167832

  • Swishy
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Soundz like u're screwd

:lol:

cya
OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST

There's more WORTH in KENWORTH

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 06 Mar 2016 05:54 #167838

  • Dave_64
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Sarge,
Don't wish to rain on your parade, but when it comes to bolt and nut threads, automotive manufacturers do some queer things! Twice in the past two years I have had to get special thread count taps imported because some wanker of an engineer decided that instead of common old 18 T.P.I UNF wasn't good enough and we better change it to 24 TPI just so no-one else can use it. Happens much more than a lot of people realise, often to find to their horror that they have stripped a nut or bolt. Correct thread counts and their myriad of combinations can be a complete head toss. I know, that's why I have no hair left!!
Dave

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 06 Mar 2016 08:04 #167840

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Sarge,
I reckon your bolts would be correct size and the threads in tractor too far gone.
Those two halves on the splines will be tapered on the outside, the purpose of the studs was to push the hub IN away from you to release the clamping effect and free the halves.
For a good thread is there room to cut down a nut to fit behind the flange? or use chisels as wedges between the flange and hub and do what the pusher studs were meant to do? and wear goggles.
Feeling the frustration, David.

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Last edit: by wouldyou.

International A40 - 1 Superloader 06 Mar 2016 11:15 #167847

  • Mrsmackpaul
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Sarge would I be right in understanding that either the wedge comes out or the wheel has to be pushed in ????

If I am correct in my understanding is there some reason why you cant just re tap the holes to suit what ever thread you want and rather than dick around taping all the way thru maybe just bolt a fair lump of steel between the two bolts and use a porta power or jack put as much tension as you dare then belt the hub or axle a few times then re jack and belt again if this doesnt work I have other methods to try

Paul

and you need to hurry up I have my tractor apart LOL




Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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International A40 - 1 Superloader 06 Mar 2016 11:19 #167848

  • dieseldog
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Are you using to heat to expand the hub/wheel centre away from the axle wedges? Take the valve out of the tyre, or the tyre off and heat the entire centre until you can no longer rest your hand on it, then load up the puller, with help from the pusher bolts and hit the end of the axle with a big hammer.

If you haven't got the gear to heat, use dry ice to cool. Cut a length of PVC pipe, about 6" diameter, to fit the exposed axle behind the wheel and make one cut lengthways. Spread it over the axle and then fill it with the dry ice. Keep adding dry ice until you feel the outer end of the axle get cold and try the puller again. The only downside is you need to avoid using a hammer as you may fracture whatever you hit.

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International A40 - 1 Superloader 06 Mar 2016 11:49 #167852

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I think this is an if only job..... First thing I cant do is smack the end of the axle. It finishes 3/4 of an inch inside the wedges. I can't see or get at the axle between wheel and frame, as the inside of the wheel is cone shaped right up to the busted bearing cover. There just might be enough gap between the wedge and the wheel face to get a half inch thick nut in to get the pusher bolt into, but no way to get a spanner in there to hold it. Wondered about re tapping the holes ...... no room to get a chisel or wedge in either....

I have not gone down the heat path yet.... (no exposed axle for icing), might have to see about a bigger puller.... though the load on the centre nut might become a problem....

I am thinking that your back end will be no good for me Paul, the wheels are facing the wrong way....

thanks gents... I will head back out into the 40deg shade and swear at it some more...
Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.

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