International A40 - 1 Superloader

This is from an old John Deere site (similar wedges to International.

Re: John Deere A splined hub removal?
Try using your favorite soaker...PB Blaster, Kroil, home brew, whatever. drive a dull chisel into the crack in the hub at 90 degrees to the axle and tap, tap, tap with moderate force with a 4 lb. hammer or so. HEAVY blows will crack this thin JD hub for sure. Thousands of hits later, constantly adding soaker to the crack, you'll see rust popping out with each blow. Gently heat occasionally with the rosebud, too much heat too quickly and the hub will split when cooling. I usually heat and walk away to let it cool and shrink. The heat is doing its thing as it cools, as the cast hub and the steel axle cool at a different rate. Once you see movement, drive it back the other way and then back and forth, cleaning with a wire wheel.

Its not unusual to take a lot of time to successfully remove these without damage. The last set took me 10 to 15 minutes every evening for several weeks to remove, but they did come off with no damage.

I have done all the above in addition to a 50 ton hydraulic jack against the end of the axle with a piece of grade 70 chain over the end of the jack and to each side of the hub held in place with appropriate grade 8 bolts. If the chain links are too small for the bolts, swell them in a vice with a drift punch and a little heat. Do the same with the link thats over the end of the jack. Oh yeah, a little prep with the jack: butt weld a grade 8 bolt stub on the end of the stem to hold the chain from popping off the side too easily. Then that jack becomes dedicated to hub removal duty, or just grind the bolt stub off.

Or...locate new hubs and heat these puppies up nice and red and beat'em off with a sledge....

Safety note...the 50 ton jack, if you so desire to use this option, will be under a lot of pressure and may "pop" off the axle and knock the dickens out of your leg or whatever is next to it. So be careful....grade 70 chain and grade 8 bolts are a must !!!!

I'm sure there are dozens of ideas, many much better than this and I hope you get some additional suggestions because I could use some more ideas myself...

Sorry for the length, it's hard to shorten without leaving out something....good luck, sir.

You blokes are on the money, nothing has moved, but other jobs have taken precedence and at the moment Mrs Sarge is happy with me. (Don’t poke the bear). :woohoo:
I am about to do as Bluey suggests, its been well over 12 months sitting unprotected in the weather, I was worried that the engine might have locked up, but all good, need to replace a perished hydraulic return hose, (it leaked out 20litres of oil while parked) so I can start up lift the bucket and see what happens. But most of all, get it the “Golly Gosh” away from the wedding shed…. NOW. :blush: :oops:
Watch this space.
Interesting reading Lang, these wedges are long, and well inside the dish of the wheel and the axel end is inside the wedge… just to make all the harder to get at.
The biggest risk is damaging the axel housing by running on the busted bearings, they are not made from unobtainium, but some one has to go through the same process that I am to get me another one.

Gooday new to forum stuff but my father had 2 of these super loaders and I have 1 of his in my back yard ,also several boxes of spare parts and workshop manuals if at all ur interested. Cheers

dajam, we are all, always interested. where in our big wide country are you located? :silly:

Townsville. Will dig through boxes this weekend.

dajam, you is a loooong way from Central Mexico... :woohoo: . but always interested in hearing what you find.

Dajam...do you have a complete one for sale..

There has been movement.... orders is orders.... get that heap of junk out of the way (of the wedding).... now the shed is all fixed and paved moving the loader came to the top of todays list... remove chocks, blocks and jack, fix leaking hydraulic return hose, check and add oil, water and air as necessary, drain and refill petrol, add a battery and ........ crank ...... crank..... crank. ... clean points and plugs, hook the ute into the battery..... and PURRRRRRRR. Very pleased about that....

Shift ute, climb aboard, (entry is either over the bucket or up over the engine cover) pull the hydraulics back, bucket up, bucket tilt... not very far or fast, needs more oil (and probably less water... even though I drained the tank) into gear and off we go......

Not a crunch, squeak, grind or rumble.... very tempting to load the bucket up with the spoil I want to move.... no, off to the back of the shearing shed out of sight....

And sadly, no BANG or CLUNK as the wedges popped out..... will have to think some more on that.....

These old jiggers really were built to last, nearly two years in the weather and after a half baked service and she is off and running....

Happy wife and Bride to Be... and a smile on my dial too. :silly:

Sarge, have you tried liquid nitrogen?
Col

Kruizin, I have not tried liquid nitrogen, and just today my Expert Guru Max was on scene talking about Gelignite.... !!!

Well We are not that desperate, Max formulated a plan of attack last visit which meant machining up some spacers and making a backing plate so he could put a flat ram between the plate and the axle stub.... the plan misfired Tuesday when the power pack would not reach pressure, so today he brought the big muvva chubber power pack out.




this is the flat ram, has got about a half inch of travel.... more than enough for this job.... :S :S :S




this is the power pack connected to the ram which is hiding behind the inch thick plate, Max drilled the plate to match the wheel nut holes (Not the pusher nut holes) he then taped out the wheel nut holes 7/8 fine for those bolts to lock into, next thing you do is pump....



at full load the gauge ran round to here, I could see some deflection in the bolts....
couple of goes like this, adding a bit more packer down into the axle stub....



LOOK OUT ...... IT MOVED




eventually it actually came off..... found these bits of new Toyota cars floating around between the inner and outer bearing... well there really is not any out bearing, even the seal sleeve is badly grooved up.... But the wheel is off.... Whooohooo. Thanks Max.

Down side, every half inch we had to remove the bolts, remove the ram add half inch of packers and re-assemble.... Max tells me the wedges will never come out of the wheel hub, dont bother trying they will be rusted solid. The wedges run full width/depth of the hub. We will just make a long threaded rod, fit it into the axle and wind the nut home pushing the wheel on.... easy peasy.... :dry: :huh:

Now to find the necessary parts.