many many moons ago back in the dim dark days of last century I worked on lifts (elevators) in high rise buildings and when we changed a hoist motor bearings they were a pressed on interference fit in the factory
We had no way of removing and replacing the bearings on site so we would do it like this
We would cut thru the outer race to remove the outside shell then man handle the rollers out and then cut thru the inner race with a grinder and would use a large cold chisel and hammer in the groove and belt the bahjeebers out of it and the bearing would fall in half
we then had to fit a fresh bearing but had no way of pressing it on
So we would use a styro foam esky and cut hole in the end and silicone that to the shaft and support it on blocks of wood and then fill it with liquid nitrogen to shrink the shaft
After a hour or so we would just smash the esky off and quickly slip the new bearing into place
I was always amazed just how much the shaft shrunk, at a guess the shaft was 8 or 9 inches across and out side of the bearing 16 inches and would take two of us blokes to lift and slip it into place
We were always told to be very careful of shaft as it might shatter if hit real hard, I never new if they were pulling my leg or not but thought it wise not to find out
Maybe this type of thing would be quicker and easier than making a puller to get it back together again
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
I am hearing your story Paul, I am familiar with freezing liners to slip in a block.... I need to have a play and slip the new bearing and housing on the shaft, then see how hard it is going to be to sit the wheel in place. After that I will have some sort of idea what the problem rating is going to be. I have studdied the bedroom ceiling in the dark a few times wondering how to reverse Mighty Max's Marvelous puller....
His parting suggestion was big long section of all thread screwed into the end of the axle and FB nut on the end of an FB spanner turning another FB nut.
Its cold enough now to get icecream from the cow, should be out there having a go right this minute...... No. cant go, my Milo is ready.
Just thought I’d check and make sure you weren’t still having sleepless nights wondering how to get your wheel back on
If you haven’t got it back on I was wondering if now it’s of the axle wether you might be able to get the clamps out of the wheel centre if they aren’t jambed on the axle they might be encouraged to come loose with a little heat and a FBH
Bluey, I have not slept now for nearly 18 months, just worrying, , I walk past and give it a look, or a kick sometimes, the expert who helped me got it off said dont even think about the wedges ever moving, just polish up the shaft and the wheel, lotsa oil and wind the bolt into the shaft end, it will go back ok.
I thought I would actually buff the spline back for the first 10 ml to help get it started, just gotta get the job started, you all know how that goes, lawn needs mowing, too busy, she will do it, mower wont start, no garden water, windmill busted, get the pump out, hose fitting stripped, I could go on.... fixing my loader will get a lift in priority if a job comes u that someone needs a loader for.... I keep making hints.
Be careful kicking things that frustrate you she might get upset
Your man must have known my grandad he used to say with a lot of patience and a bit of thin oil you could do a cat (I always hoped he didn’t know from experience)
The easiest way to get cured of fixing old tractors is to look at Gumtree and see what s being asked for them........I couldnt believe how cheap old Chamberlains and Inters have got.....loaders and backhoes,and if you assume they ll sell for less.........well why would i want to spend $500 for just a couple of hoses.?...........
John, I am the bloke who gets the bargain deal for great purchase price and still needs new hoses and a radiator, alternator, drive tyre, fuel tank, WHEEL BEARING.... ohhh, and stub axle, dropped off middle of main highway intersection..... bang it in 1st and dragged itself onto the nature strip, gouged the road up and busted the kerb, sat there for three days until I found a replacement from a nice bloke who specialised in unobtanium....
same $500 loader. (and you read about the chamberlain).... keeps me occupied thinking about it all.
from July 2017 to August 2019, hardly much time at all really. Apart from the regulation kick and sidelong glance I have tried to ignore the loader until someone said fix it or lose it...NOW... I got the hint. When last inspected the wheel was off, revealing a busted bearing housing and a the remaining few bits of bearing located in the axle housing and the wedges firmly stuck inside the wheel hub.
Where to start, :- cleaned up the secondhand bearing housing, found the replacement bearing I bought 2 years ago... (took 2 hours, found other stuff too) clean out the gloop in the axle housing, and big effort required, tackle the wedges, brush them, polish them, wash them, file off the lumps and bumps...Used the Chamberlain to hold the wheel off the loader so I could get to the inside.. (very Fn heavy wheel), ahhh what the heck, those wedges deserve a smack, just because they stick out a bit.... lump of 2 inch pipe, whack, nothing, 'nuther whack, one wedge on the ground, tap and then there are two.
Who's a happy boy now then....?
Next problem is what to do about the retaining bolt holes in the wheel centre, they were a fine thread but have been mongrelled with what ever someone could get in there. Might see if a mate can tap them out..... other side has studs, dont know if they are screwed or welded in.
The just got to line ér all up and put the wheel back on. Maybe in weeks, not years.
You can try to clean up the existing threads and keep the original size or establish what size you have and look at the next size up whether it be metric or imperial and tap that size. We used to have to repair 6mm holes in alloy on our old Jap bike which were paddock bashers. They were simple, no drilling just run a 1/4" BSW into the hole and away we go again.