Trouble fe35

Hi all
I have a fe35 which run well. However on the left hand side of the tractor were the gear box joints the engine their is a hole on the bolting face its about 6mm .l am thing it may be a tell tale hole for something but not sure. When the engine is running diesel is coming out of this hole lots of it.
Any help would be great.
Thank
Steve

A picture could tell me more, but the hole you talking about is for a timing pin to hold the crankshaft in the right spot while you fit the injection pump drive gears. Under the bell housing, there will be a drain hole and it should have a split pin jiggling around inside it. If this hole blocks up and the seals leak, the bell housing will fill up with oil. Once the level comes up to the flywheel, it will throw the oil up and out the timing pin hole, which is why it only leaks when it's running. On top of the bell housing, there are holes for the neutral start switch, and if it's a later one, the multipower linkage. If the switch is removed or the plugs are gone, it is possible that a bad diesel leak could fill the bell housing. I have seen them full of water before.

Are you sure your engine isnt full of diesel from a failed fuel system part...Does it have a lift pump?......maybe the injector pump is leaking.....a sump full of diesel will wreck the crank bearings.

The only way diesel can get down there is if it has leaked into the sump and contaminated the oil to a point where it now leaks through the rear main seal. That being said, the diesel would obviously be the colour of sump oil.

As John said, the lift pump can leak, the injection pump can also. I have known the manifold heater to leak into the manifold. However this is only noticeable when the engine is stopped, as it is just burnt otherwise. I've seen them leak to the point of hydraulic lock, if the fuel tank was fairly full when stopped. Steve.

Hi all
I have diesel in the sump.
I have replaced the lift pump not so long ago. So maybe a leaking inject.
If the main seal is leaking and l have to spit the tractor to replace it is their anything l need to no
I have taken a couple of photos l will try and up load them.

Thanks
Steve

Was it leaking into the sump before replacing the lift pump ??

Lift pump I would think would be the most common cause of this on this style of fuel system set up

I would be checking the diaphragm in the lift pump


Paul

Steve, if your new lift pump is not the culprit as Paul says, my tip is the front seal in the injection pump.

Not knowing what you plan to do with the old girl, it is hard to advise whether or not to split it and repair the rear main seal.
Once you fix the diesel problem and replace the contaminated oil with the right stuff, if you are only going to use it occasionally and can put up with a slight oil leak, leave it alone. On the other hand, if it is a working tractor, it would pay to fix it properly as the clutch will eventually slip with oil/diesel. My FE35 has a slight leak at the rear main, but as it's just a toy now, I don't worry about it.
Just my 2 Roberts worth. Steve.

Rear main seals are easy, they are a conventional seal and easily replaced. Splitting the tractor is fairly straight forward. The easiest way is to put blocks under the bell housing, and an engine crane in from the front, with a sling around the sump, and roll it away. The clutch will be soaked, so wash it with shellite and make sure the drain hole is free. When you put it back together, cut the heads off some long bolts and thread them into opposite sides of the bell housing. As you roll them together, just make sure each side is equal as it comes in. This make lining up the double spline so much easier.

If the lift pump is leaking, a complete new pump is the go as they are only a few dollars more than the kit, but last twice as long again. If the injector pump is leaking, you can pull it straight off but just make sure the punch marks are there. The internal spline is a master spline, so it can only go back in one way. Genuine seal kits are cheap, but you'd be looking at over $1000 dollars for a shop to do it. There are CAV manuals online if you want to do it yourself.

make sure you actually have a rear seal.....lots of early motors dont....A very simple "farmers repair" is to turn off the fuel tap when the motor isnt going....you could also eliminate the lift pump,gravity feed is good for a tractor..........modern(ish) jap utes dont have lift pumps,they make do with suction from the injector pump to lift fuel,so a tractor with gravity feed doesnt need a lift pump.......I remember the seal on the DPA drive failed in my truck,diesel came out the dipstick ......didnt hurt the Perk tho,no oil pressure before or after.....ran for 10 years with no oil pressure.

Thanks all for the great info
I am going to put a seal kit in the injector pump as the lift pump is ok . Then l will replace the rear main seal
Thanks again
Cheers