McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel

Well here we go on a long journy with this one. I managed to load my preferred engine onto the tractors carry-all which made for power steering on the Cropmaster which was different and got it up under the carport which is where it will be stripped down and cleaned. I have found the good injector as the original was broken off by someone else many years ago and it took me over a year to find the replacement but at least it is here. I quickly had a look at what I think are all the parts I have and found parts that I don't know what they are as yet but in time with help from you guys I will find a place to fit them.
Now I do have a booklet called "Instruction Book for erecting and running Imperial Super -Diesel Engines" It has 35 pages of information but it is not a workshop manual that shows you what parts belong where.

Is there a workshop manual for the SE engine?

Well first we had to drag the best of two evils out from under the house, load it onto the carry-all and get it up under the carport. As you can see this is the broken injector.

Next I started to remove some parts and started with the 4" belt pulley. Had a look inside and the 3 heads of the bolts were badly rusted and I had to use 3 different size sockets on the 3 bolts but they wound out as if nothing was wrong. I then thought this is off to a great start.
Big Mouth now has foot in mouth disease. Next to be removed are the flywheels and to do that the gibb keys had to come out. Ever since these engines came home years ago I have squirted diesel on nearly every bolt I could see including the flywheels and the gibb keys. Well the head broke off the first one. So with not too much swearing I started to drill out the key starting with a small one then bigger and then to the 1/4" size. I got this drilled into the key to almost the full depth of the twist of the bit taking care to keep pulling it out to clear the twist. Snap it went at full depth, more words of constructive and very descriptive usually pleasurable things flew around the yard. So Plan C was then to drill small holes above and to the side of the 1/4" bastard. So using now a 1/8" bit I managed to carefully drill 2 more holes full depth and the theory was to help relive the pressure on the 1/4" bit. Then it hit me, maybe I can cut away part of the gibb key and this will allow me to get some vice grips on the bit. No way, the bit didn't just snap it shattered into lots of short pieces so there is still about an 1" inside under the hub of the flywheel but this gave me more access to drill the small holes deeper. Well as you can see it too snapped off. So I now have 2 drill bits securing the key in place, I feel so lucky,,,,NOT!
You will see the good injector waiting to be stripped. clean and adjusted in the future.

Have you thought about welding a bolt onto what's left of the key and using a slide hammer on it.

If you cut the head off and welded that end on it would leave the thread exposed it would give you options on what you attach to pull it out.

A bit of copper pipe slit and slipped over the crankshaft so it sat each side of the key would stop damage (and welding) on the crank.

The heat may make things easier to get apart.

I would think a man with your ingenuity would create a puller using the exposed thread and some pipe.

I dont see why the key needs to be removed.....incidentally ,IMHO diesel is useless for penetrating rust ......One old method for removing flywheels is to heat the rim as quickly as you can ,this expands the rim and pulls the shaft hole open a little.........You would need a oxy torch with a big rose nozzle to do this .......no use getting the whole flywheel hot.

No matter what anyone says we all suffer in the same way and commiserate with your sufferings. Just quietly tell yourself that it was your choice in the first place, and then go back to the problem . . .
ad infinitum :blink:

Is it necessary to pull the flywheel?How loose are the mains.......the big end can usually be rounded up good enough for a chug -a -thon at rallies .....Ive got an old Rogers 100 ton porta power made for Caterpillat dozer sprockets ......if either pulls or breaks to pieces.....Sometimes a shaft will score badly pulling off a flywheel,but with a bit of heat on the rim and a good hydraulic puller ,they come off OK.

Gibb keys are a tapered fit into the hub of the flywheel so if you pull the flywheel you tighten it onto the key. I need to get both flywheels off to replace oil seals behind them on both sides and to get the the gears and pump on one side.
This engine is a slightly different design to most. The big end bearing is already off and sitting in the bucket of bits, but it is a separate item and is then bolted to the conrod using the 2 bolts for the bearing shells. You can add or subtract shims at the joint to raise or lower the compression. The other reason to get the crankshaft out is for cleaning out the crud and I am thinking of pressing out the liner as well to get the solid rust out of the water jackets and also to replace the sealing ring on the liner. Every little bit I can unbolt from the engine makes it easier to handle and for re-assembly further down the track.
Today I made up a tool to help flog the flywheel inwards after I get some heat into and around the hub of the flywheel. A piece of 3" water pipe with a handle attached and heavy bit of flat bar welded to the back end of it for the BFH can do it's job.
Started to heat up using my only source of heat a "B" size burner on a length of hose from the LPG bottle. I got comfy on an upturned 20ltr oil drum and started heating up. This is a slow process but then it started pissing down rain and guess where the water leak is, right above me. So I blew the whistle and went on with another job. Here is a pic of the good injector but needs a bloody good cleaning.
As for these injectors where the original one broke off is there suppose to be an "O" ring or something there or is the a copper washer to be fitted under the injector where it seats?
I have had a very kind offer of some oxy if required so time will tell.

I know the key has a taper in the hub,but should pull along the straight keyway in the shaft,if its stuck in the hub.If its been drilled out partly,it will likely collapse if it doesnt come with the hub.Ive spent nearly 60 odd years doing equiptment maintenance work ,and pulled many difficult setups......But we always had enough heat to melt iron if we had to .

cobbadog, reference the flywheel photo. Is the flywheel two components?

There looks to be 6 ‘puller’ holes total ? 3 of those holes on what appear to be a washer at first glance.

Is there a central cone section that is tightened into the fly wheel hub ?