McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel

I've never been in there, so couldn't say.
The spring on the pushrod should hold it against the cam. Fully depressed is injection time. Wherever the pushrod is on the compression stroke, you can measure clearance between the injector knob and the lifting lever. If you have a dial and mag base, you could measure the full lift, which occurs throughout the intake stroke.
I sit here now, watching it cover everything in the McDonald measles. After re-ringing it, it's no better. Having said that, I haven't put proper oil in it yet, just multigrade that was at hand.

Jarrod.

Will have a play with it after I get Lorry sorted.
Will get the dial indicator out and also connect the arm from the injector body across to the main push rod and the little bracket it sits in.
Cheers

Late today after work and the sale of some more items I will never use I had a short play time with the adjustments of the linkages and valve clearances.


Firstly I managed to get the short arm released from the governor shaft so that if needed I can move it left or right.


I noticed my engine was missing a spring from where the arm from the injector housing goes over to the main pushrod area and connects to a double crank arm which has a collet on it. This would serve the job of taking out any freeplay when operating.


With some inside information from ASW that same double crank arm is now sitting about 3/8" off the hopper when the pushrod is all the way back towards the crankshaft. This still has a lot of tension on that main spring to make sure it always returns back to the cam.


Set both valve clearances when it is at TDC as per booklet.


Tomorrow I will go further and double check the actions of decompressing while rotating the flywheel and follow on from that. I'm not sure if I can see the light at the end of the tunnel or is it a train coming.

Your making progress and that's the main thing

I'm guessing it wont be long before we hear some action

Paul

Cobba, can you give it a slow run on compressed air to see if it plays like you want it to..... or is that just a silly dream I was having that it can be done?

If this engine was steam then I know how to make it run on compressed air but have no idea how to make a Hvid Brons engine do the same.
Yes, it is getting close to being able to attempt a start even though the gear side cover and flywheel top half of the water hopper fuel tank and line are not on yet, these are simple things to do.
It is all this checking and trying to understand the way this bugga works or is suppose to work. Each time I sit down with it on mu upturned plastic bucket and read the 'destructions' in the booklet or read extra information online I am slowly getting a grip on it, I hope. Making these 1/32" gap adjustments are easy to do, BUT, it is like doing a front end wheel alignment on a Valiant Charger. If you adjust something out of order then you have made a mistake and will have to start again. I dont know how many times I have done the valves then moved onto the injector plunger and later discover the gap on the valves has opened.
So hopefully tomorrow I should have those adjustments made then rotate the flywheel a few times watching the operation of the valves and also I have to do the test for the correct operation of the decompression lever.
I do like a challenge but at least it is not upsetting me,,,,yet!

What am I missing or done wrong here?
With the top pic the engine is on TDC and compression but the timing mark is 180' out.
When the timing mark is together the piston is at TDC again and the inlet valve is about to open.

Starting at TDC and on compression with the marks as shown in the first pic I then rotate the flywheel clockwise as shown on the crankshaft gear. As the piston passes BDC and starts to rise the exhaust valve opens then the inlet starts to open at the next TDC then it goes back down and comes back up to compression. The valves appear to be working in the correct order plus the decompression lever does work when flipped over and releases at a certain point when I try to lift it up. It seems to be operating right but the timing marks are not lining up at TDC compression.

I did try slipping the crank gear off and rotating the cam gear and aligning it again but it did exactly the same thing. I cannot get TDC on compression with the timing marks in line.

Termimesh rolled up as a fuel filter, cheap aren't I?

Time to re-visit that other key way?

Firstly understand I dont know my ass from elbow so probably discard anything Im about to type

On any diesel motor I have worked on the injector fires a fare way befor TDC
All injectors I have had anything to do with dont fire immediately, they build pressure and when the pressure reaches a predetermined pressure the the force of the diesel over comes the spring pressure and then at pressure it gets squirted into the cylinder

What I dont know is how many degrees this is

So from what I understand you believe your 180 degrees out

I wonder if its only 90 ?

Which would mean that its 45° before TDC
If you then allow time for the pressure to build in the injector ? it may timed right as it is
Or maybe Im full of B.S. and my cup is fllowing over with it

Dunno

Good luck and I'll keep on reading your reports

Paul