Valve Timing

I'm always looking at photos to see if there is anything extra to be learnt......

The exhaust manifold colouration sort of looks like #1 runs hotter than #4. Or is it just my imagination????

I nteresting observation and I have not noticed this before so feel it is just the light but will double check tomorrow. When the engine rebuild got done all the water jackets were completely cleared so no hot spots could happen and since the re3build there has never been anything come loose and coolant always green alien blood and when dumped out is clean as a whistle and no floaties in it.

Manifold is same colour all the way along, thankfully but thanks for the tip.

Did another compression test today on a cold engine and all came in at 65psi which I thought was a bit low. Then just now I remembered I did NOT open the throttle to full so will have another go tomorrow.
Bought a NOS dizzy cap genuine Lucas in box and a Bosch GL229 rotor button which suits this dizzy I have. Also found that the picture in the workshop manual is NOT one to suit the early 30C, must be to suit later models.
The DX4A and DZ4A were both original fitments to the 30C from 1949 - 1954 along with a long line of pommy cars Austin A90, Land Rover for just 2 years, grey fergy, Vanguard obviously Sunbeam one model and so on around a dozen vehicles all up.
Then when looking at it again today I saw this, the condensor wire which was running close to an earth and might be able to jump so I moved it 1/4 turn.

Just had a curved ball thrown at me about the ignition coil. Which way do I have it connected? Siting back here this time of night I dont know. So keeping in mind that this is a positive earth electrical system the live wire from the ignition switch should go to which side of the coil?
Also will break out the coil/condensor testing machine and double check condensor and coil. The machine has the ability to heat the coil up to test the spark before and after heating mode plus I can open up the spark gap very wide up to about an inch. It tells me that a coil passes if you get a good constant spark up to position 7 which is around 3/4" gap, then stop the test, heat the coil for a few minutes the re-do the test. You should still have a constant strong spark after heating.

+ and - are still connected to + and -. If it's positive earth, + will go to the points.

Jarrod.

Ignition wire goes to the negative and the positive side goes to the distributor.

Here might be my problem.