Oxford Allen Scythe

It got a wash inside n out because of it laying on cut grass then birdies leaving messages. 

Back on topic.
tyres fitted now for final assembly after I highlight the letters in yellow 

Painted the letters today, 3 coats. Looks OK. Found that the tyre fitter pinched a tube as one was dead flat n now will not inflate at all so it's torn. Back to them tomorrow with a pissed off look on me dial. Last pic shows the different tread pattern n condition of the original tyre.

Cobbadog,
That looks so good you will not want to use it and get it dirty.

Tread pattern is near enough.

So even the experts can rip a tube. I thought it was only me!
 

Cobba

When I was a kid working Saturday mornings on the petrol pumps at my Dad's Holden dealership in Southport the old parts manager showed me how to do a perfect job on the raised lettering on the tyres of the showroom cars. I used silver frost but any paint works by using an old wine cork (don't know if the new plastic ones will work). It holds the paint nicely on a flat surface and gives a sharp line on the lettering which is difficult with a brush or even a felt pen.

I am sure Dad sold a lot of extra FB Holdens when the customers were dazzled by that sporty silver lettering on the tyres. 

PS

Morris

The 'experts" you talk about, unless it was a bike shop, would have gone up to the boss and told him they found this funny rubber thing inside the old tyre, what is it for? Miss Hodgson, the coach of our pedal club when I was 10 years old would whack us over the fingers if she saw anyone using a tyre lever to replace a tyre during our tyre-changing lessons. It all had to be pushed back by hand.

Took the flat to town n they looked at it straight away. I just said it's flat n won't inflate. Very quickly discovered that the bead of the tyre had indeed pinched the tube. In went a new tube n returned with an apology which I was grateful for.
So on went the wheels, drives n ratchets. Thought while it's here in these odd positions I would touch up some paint I scratched. Tomorrow the engine, fuel tank n cutter bar go on then its done.

Lang, you have brought back embarrassing memories of 18 year old me using white tyre crayon (remember those?) to highlight "Goodyear G8" and "Olympic Air-Ride" on the tyres of my first car. (EK wagon built from bits of several FBs and EKs)

I used to change tryes with big screwdrivers back then and only took them to the tyre shop to get balanced.

Jarrod.

Hit a brick wall today which was unexpected. Fitted the cutter bar to balance the beast, then the fuel tank then finally the engine. All went together perfectly but for some reason the clutch will not disengage. When the lid was off for inspection even then the clutch was working as designed. Put the lid on and carried on to today and now this.
From the clutch lever a rod runs down the inside of the handle to an L shaped braket which pushes the clutch rod back n forth. The bracket is a bit loose.      

Just had a thought, the handle can be fitted at various positions in its mounting clamps and most likely is the adjustmment. More tomorrow.

The UK has also confirm handle adjustment

Sorted the clutch issue. As I thought it through all afternoon yesterday n part of the evening then backed up by the UK a simple movement of the handle backwards took out the freely. Now I have a clutch. You can see how much I moved it back as the paint is missing. See above handle bracket. 

Next, no spark, bugga. I had it running not so long ago but with no spark it won't now. Found a bad soldered joint at the coil as well. Tried just looking at timing n points. Wanted to file the points but points file has gone missing in action somewhere. So off with the flywheel. I removed the points n dressed them but while I had easy access I thought I would show you a quick way to confirm the system is good. I use 2 wires, a 9v battery n something to hold the points open. 
Connect - side of battery to ground then + side to the wire from the coil to the open points. Put a spark plug in the HT lead n ground the body of the plug so you can see the gap on the plug. Finally strike the wire from the points onto the 
+  side of the battery like striking a match. Each strike should show a spark. 
DO NOT HOLD + ONTO BATTERY OR DAMAGE WILL HAPPEN.

Works on all magnetos