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How to make a mower deck run in reverse
1 year 2 months ago #254590
by jon_d
Replied by jon_d on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Or to level out the car so the oil light didn't go on. ???
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8 months 3 weeks ago #257440
by Zuffen
Replied by Zuffen on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Seeing the MightyBoy steering is in a state of flux whilst waiting on another Nissan column I thought what better way to get dirty hands than pull the mower apart.
I have the gearbox out and the input shaft out of it.
I can confirm the spacer #7 turns freely on the shaft. Also looking at the shaft the collar #2 is fixed to the shaft so the only way the shaft to come out is to come via the pulley end. My reasoning is the oil seal can't pass over the collar and suddenly shrink to fit the shaft.
The question is how to get the end plate #22 out. Looking closely at the shaft, after removing the paint it also appears to be fitted from within the case, that would make it easier to seal. There's a 13mm nut welded to the end plate but it doesn't want to turn and a bolt runs in and stops tight and it could be pushing on the bolt #24 but the cover doesn't want to move as the case appears to have a step on the outside of plate #22 to retain it.
I'm a bit disinclined to revert to a bit hammer as it could damage the teeth in the internal gear or damage the sleeve so it won't want to go back on.
As the gear #6 is splined it makes sense the splines have to run the length of the shaft to slide the gear in to place, so as Lang said, it should flip over and fit the other side.
I'm open to suggestions of how to drive the shaft out without destroying the end plate.
Thinking out loud, if the end plate is installed first from within the housing it should drift out through the housing.
The more I look at it the bearing #5 must be installed from outside the case, hence the retaining bolt and washer to keep the shaft in the housing and stop it working it's way out under the force of the drive. The shaft and bearing together with the washer and other bits #'s 5,17,38,23 & 24 could all be installed after the cover plate is in place but they wouldn't be retaining the shaft in the correct place.
I definitely think the cover plate #22 has to come off first, then undo the bolt then the shaft should slide out through the bearing, oilseal and gear.
I have the gearbox out and the input shaft out of it.
I can confirm the spacer #7 turns freely on the shaft. Also looking at the shaft the collar #2 is fixed to the shaft so the only way the shaft to come out is to come via the pulley end. My reasoning is the oil seal can't pass over the collar and suddenly shrink to fit the shaft.
The question is how to get the end plate #22 out. Looking closely at the shaft, after removing the paint it also appears to be fitted from within the case, that would make it easier to seal. There's a 13mm nut welded to the end plate but it doesn't want to turn and a bolt runs in and stops tight and it could be pushing on the bolt #24 but the cover doesn't want to move as the case appears to have a step on the outside of plate #22 to retain it.
I'm a bit disinclined to revert to a bit hammer as it could damage the teeth in the internal gear or damage the sleeve so it won't want to go back on.
As the gear #6 is splined it makes sense the splines have to run the length of the shaft to slide the gear in to place, so as Lang said, it should flip over and fit the other side.
I'm open to suggestions of how to drive the shaft out without destroying the end plate.
Thinking out loud, if the end plate is installed first from within the housing it should drift out through the housing.
The more I look at it the bearing #5 must be installed from outside the case, hence the retaining bolt and washer to keep the shaft in the housing and stop it working it's way out under the force of the drive. The shaft and bearing together with the washer and other bits #'s 5,17,38,23 & 24 could all be installed after the cover plate is in place but they wouldn't be retaining the shaft in the correct place.
I definitely think the cover plate #22 has to come off first, then undo the bolt then the shaft should slide out through the bearing, oilseal and gear.
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257455
by jon_d
Replied by jon_d on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
I think the same.
Is 22 welded in (?) Or is it one of those dish type welsh plugs that is flattened in the middle causing it to spread out and lock into a grove or something?
Is 22 welded in (?) Or is it one of those dish type welsh plugs that is flattened in the middle causing it to spread out and lock into a grove or something?
The following user(s) said Thank You: PaulFH
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257457
by Bluey60
Replied by Bluey60 on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Zuffen without seeing it if the end plate 22 is dished out slightly wit a nut welded to the centre I’d be inclined to think Joh-d might be on the right track with a welsh plug type of plate
I’d be inclined to hook a slide hammer into the 13mm nut that should reddish the plate and shrink it so it will come out then to replace it just put it back in and give it a smack on the nut and it will swell out tight duno just guessing
Cheers Bluey
I’d be inclined to hook a slide hammer into the 13mm nut that should reddish the plate and shrink it so it will come out then to replace it just put it back in and give it a smack on the nut and it will swell out tight duno just guessing
Cheers Bluey
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257461
by Mrsmackpaul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
Replied by Mrsmackpaul on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Yep what Bluey says and jon say
Paul
Paul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257463
by Blackduck59
Replied by Blackduck59 on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
If 23 is a seal ring then I would go with the slide hammer, it does look like a hammer in plug. Needs to come out to access the nut shown in front of it.
Cheers Steve
Cheers Steve
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8 months 2 weeks ago - 8 months 2 weeks ago #257471
by jon_d
Replied by jon_d on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Just a thought,
Q: does part #22 have a slight dome with a flat or dimpled top? (ie having being flattened like we think.)
Q: does part #22 have a slight dome with a flat or dimpled top? (ie having being flattened like we think.)
Last edit: 8 months 2 weeks ago by jon_d.
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257474
by Zuffen
Replied by Zuffen on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
I think we're all on the same line of thinking.
I'll make up something so I can try drawing the plate out rather than us a slide hammer. The case does look stepped with the plate inside it. It also makes sense that's the only way to get it apart.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
I'll make up something so I can try drawing the plate out rather than us a slide hammer. The case does look stepped with the plate inside it. It also makes sense that's the only way to get it apart.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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8 months 2 weeks ago #257482
by Zuffen
Replied by Zuffen on topic How to make a mower deck run in reverse
Many thanks to all who contributed ideas.
It's done!
The cover came of with a bolt and a spacer to slowly pull it off. it went back on with a very large socket and a tap from a hammer.
I had to drift out the bearing and oil seal on the input side of the shaft as the spacer tube and gear wouldn't come out unless the bearing moved first.
Once I had the bearing moved it came apart and went back together in a few minutes.
When filling it with oil (no idea how much it should take) I overfilled it as the breather will allow any excess to escape. My reasoning is there was no way to know if the oil that was in it was the correct quantity or not as there was plenty of oil around the case, but as we all know a teaspoon of oil will attract a lot of dirt and look terminal.
So I would say the mission was a success and I'll give it a test run once the ground dries out a bit.
Once again thanks to all who offered advice as it was all good advice. I think I needed a push to be brave enough to pull it down not knowing if parts are available as this is a discontinued transmission.
Now my next job is to stop the rabbits coming under the front gates.
It's done!
The cover came of with a bolt and a spacer to slowly pull it off. it went back on with a very large socket and a tap from a hammer.
I had to drift out the bearing and oil seal on the input side of the shaft as the spacer tube and gear wouldn't come out unless the bearing moved first.
Once I had the bearing moved it came apart and went back together in a few minutes.
When filling it with oil (no idea how much it should take) I overfilled it as the breather will allow any excess to escape. My reasoning is there was no way to know if the oil that was in it was the correct quantity or not as there was plenty of oil around the case, but as we all know a teaspoon of oil will attract a lot of dirt and look terminal.
So I would say the mission was a success and I'll give it a test run once the ground dries out a bit.
Once again thanks to all who offered advice as it was all good advice. I think I needed a push to be brave enough to pull it down not knowing if parts are available as this is a discontinued transmission.
Now my next job is to stop the rabbits coming under the front gates.
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