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How to make a mower deck run in reverse

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6 months 1 week ago #257489 by Zuffen
Jon,

The deck would leave thin spindly grass uncut as the curved trailing edge of the blade knocked in down and passed over it.  Quite often I would have to mow bits twice.
I'm hoping the quality of the cut will improve significantly as the deck is a finishing deck designed to leave a good finish.
Also I won't have to wander around at the end looking for the blade that fell off during the mow.  Then I need to find the nut and washers or source new ones.
Lastly I won't need to weld steel to the side of the blade to engage around the spindle.  If I didn't do this and hit a clod of dirt the blade would loosen the spindle nut and lose drive then unscrew the nut and there goes the blade.
I have a set of unused blades from Caroni for the deck and once I'm happy it all works OK I'll swap them in and see how it goes. 
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2 months 2 weeks ago #259190 by Zuffen
It's only taken 3 months to drag the mower out and see what it can do.

The sheep have been keeping the grass down so no need to use the mower.

Today was a nice day and a bit of time on my hands so fired up the Iseki and gave it a run.

I can report the finish on the cut grass is at least twice as good when the blades run the correct way.

Now I'll replace the blades with the correct mulching blades for this mower and it should improve the cut even more.

I'm really impressed with the difference.

The gearbox is haemorrhaging gear oil out of the breather as I had no idea how much it needed with the drive gear moved from the bottom to the top of the case, but the pinion gear should supply plenty of lube through splash and flinging the oil around the case. it will stop spitting it out when the level is right.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #259193 by Mrsmackpaul
Sounds like a good result
The gear box probably has very little oil in it

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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2 months 2 weeks ago - 2 months 2 weeks ago #259194 by Fighting Rust
Years ago, a bloke I knew converted his 48 chevy car to LHD, the car was originally a hearse on a longer wheelbase, he fitted the back end of a standard chevy sedan rear body onto the hearse body. Anyway, he got hold of a LHD steering box and he fitted the RHD steering shaft into it. After installing it, he tried  turning the steering wheel Right Hand down, and the front wheels turned to the Left ! 
Last edit: 2 months 2 weeks ago by Fighting Rust.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #259197 by cobbadog
Great result Zuffen. Oil treatment does 2 things. 2st, rust prevention. 2nd, weed control. Both benefit you.

Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.

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2 months 2 weeks ago #259198 by wee-allis
Whenever I sold a new slasher or did one up for a customer, instead of filling it with oil, I would pump in at least one full cartridge of grease. My reason being that if one blade of grass gets into the bottom seal, the oil is gone before you know, whereas grease stays where it's needed.
Never had a problem in all the years I did it. Another equally good reason was the fact that farmers very rarely check anything. If it runs, use it till it stops.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #259202 by Mrsmackpaul
You can get anti foaming stuff for oil
A fella on the Cat forum many years ago had a Dodge Power Wagon with I think a 6BT Cummins and a 3 speed joey box the puked oil out the breather
There was a combination of things done to solve this and I think the anti foam stuff in the oil did the trick

 

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Paul 

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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