plastic coating

Ash, most of the time I reckon you'd be right.
My chassis, however was very heavily surface rusted and pitted from years in the bush.
I was only after the sealant to stop it coming back and decided to try a litre of their black as well. I'm glad I did.

Cheers.

Yeah mines pitted bad im the pits were 2/3rds thru the metal. I wire wheeled it and used phosphoric acid then painted septone chassis black...2 years in the sun baking later its peeling a little and theres no rust but... Corrosion! Long story short if the chassis had a tray on or wasnt in the desert like sun here it would be fine.. All in all i gotta spend 10 minutes sanding and painting 2 years of damage, nothing a few coldies cant fix

Also cunning stunt from 1970 knows his s

Powdercoatings a waste of time and money just wirebrush it down convert the rust and seal it then spray 2k paint.
you can get 2k additives to make it super durable.
i use wattyl industrial 2k the stuff they paint tractors and machinery with for my chassis and engine ect (yes its high heat but not manifold exaust reccomended) and baslac automotive 2k for the cab.

I agree Ash... Years ago, I restored a dirt bike & had the frame done with powder coating & it really looked nice, until after I rode it, that is.... Once the rocks thrown up from the front wheel hit the down tube, the super hard powder coating simply 'chipped off'... Only tiny little bits mind you, but enough to let the moisture in under the powder coating, & let the rust start running rampant underneath again... You couldn't see it though, until lumps of powder coating started peeling off revealing tiny, termite like tracks of rust everywhere > :'(
Powder coating is great for a showpiece, but impractical for something to be used... Stick to 2 pack, which has some 'give' to it, therefore resisting chipping.