6v53 reassemble

Believe me - I want to hear it make some noise of its own accord too! At least - the right sort of noise anyway...

I've come to a conclusion - after about a week of sleepless nights and indecisions I've decided to use the block as is, just as dieseldog and mrsmackpaul said in the first place... I took it to on friday and showed it to the very experienced metal works/engineering shop and a mechanic who does a fair bit of engine building. Both said they wouldn't hesitate to use in their current state especially considering they torque up fine.

So I'm finally moving on it - stripped the block and gave it a steaming on the weekend. All looking nice and clean and my hands don't turn coal black from looking at it. Still waiting for my mate to go to tamworth to pick the crank up and I think I've found a line on the SAE 2 flywheel I need. I brazed the snapped starter mount ear back on while i was at it tested my starters - the 24v barely turned (not sure I gave it a solid 24V though) but the 12v went great. Do these have obscene sized starters or what? Makes the big old CAV45 on my perkins seem like a lawn mower start in comparison - don't know how you'd change it in a truck

wedgetail84 wrote:

dieseldog wrote: If the thread doesn't strip now, it won't ever.

OK, that's great - exactly what I want. But I'm struggling a bit - if you torque the bolt down, surely if you apply more force downwards (is an, trying to lift the bearing cap off) this will be more likely to pull the bolt out. Or is it only the turning of the thread that causes enough force to strip them?

I have torqued the suspect caps down - three times now! They feel fine - no difference in feel to the good threads up to the click. So do you prefer oil over international compound no 2?

Threads will usually strip when there is significant damage or wear in the thread. You will usually find that a thread will strip at a relatively low torque compared to what a good bolt will take. If the thread is halfway good, the bolt will break before it pulls out. Think of how much grief a burr on a shaft causes when your trying to press parts apart. From what I'm hearing, I think some small chips have broken off the thread when it was originally cut.

I don't know what the International compound is, but I have always used engine oil. Be careful using anything with any sort of solid in it. I have seen bolts coated in Never-seize click off at full torque in a blind hole, without the head touching the surface, because the Never-seize can't squeeze its way up and out of the threads.

Chocs wrote: You could always run a bead of weld around the caps once you had torqued them down..

I have heard of this being done on a Cummins...... They used stainless rods so the weld wouldn't rust at the bottom of the ocean :huh:

but it would have doubled the value of the block? :evil:

Made some progress - got the block squeaky clean all through. Got the crank back and is looking very good. But nothing's easy is it... I pulled the 1/8 BSP plugs, well two of them ok and the third did not want to come. I stripped it with the 3/16 allen socket and tried bashing in a bigger torx bit (normally works pretty well on these type of plugs) but I was putting an unreal amount of force in - I ended up stripping it again but it really did not want to budge. I didn't want to involve any real heat (had been using a gentle heat gun) so drilled it out and tried to peel it off. Didn't work, but I did get the hole central and have drilled as big as I dare so will run a tap through when I pick it up next week.

Also I have a 1" oil pump, some turbos have a 1.25" pump. It's in spec, but should I be worried and try and source a bigger pump? Looking at the price you see them selling for at the moment I think I might put it together with what I've got and see how the oil pressure is. If it's OK on the stand I'll put it in, if not I'll find another before it goes in the truck. Maybe the 1.25" pump was for 1.5" pins and/or silver motors? Do you need a different front cover if you go to a 1.25" pump?

Oh dear, my photos seem to have been molested

I got no idea on your oil pump sizes but I would think if it was already built with this size pump then it should be ok but dont take my word for it

Paul

Make sure you give the oil galleries on both the block and the crank a good scrub. A rifle barrel brush on the end of a drill works a treat.

I somehow managed to drill the plug dead centre and cut it out about 99% - it really wouldn't let go until there was only a slither or so left which I picked out. Thread looked great afterwards so i proceeded.

Finally reached the turning point - it's going back together. Crank cleaned (rifle barrel brush was great) and in. Cleaned the caps, bolts, shells etc.. lubed the bearings oiled the bolts and it all went smoothely.

Gr8
Not sure if U need to oil the bolts ??
others might kno

eye can Hear the smoke
n look @ the noise

Almost

cya

§

Swishy wrote: Not sure if U need to oil the bolts ??

it's pretty standard practice to oil the threads and head I think for a better pre tension. The book says international compound no 2 but many recommend engine oil and I spoke to one bloke who reckoned straight weight gave the same pretension for a given torque as the peanut butter mentioned. Diesel Dog didn't mention what weight he uses but I used 15w40 as that was what was on hand. I'll be getting straight 40 for the fill

I just use whatever is in the oil can- it is usually 15w40. Any engine oil will give the same result, which is to lubricate and reduce friction. This means that the torque been exerted by the torque wrench will be spent stretching the bolt and not trying to overcome friction in the threads or under the head of the bolt. When you torqued the bolts, did you progressively torque them, as in hand tight and then one third at a time until full torque?