Austin 245F

Hire a plasma cutter? Only needs (a little) compressed air and a heap of amps. (you'll be surprised what they'll run off, though - I ran mine off a 4 pack power board for ages)

Then you can clean up with the grinder and maybe mount it higher with new brackets.

Jarrod.

Yep a 40 amp plasma cutter will run off 15 amp supply but for 10 amp prob only 30 amp. Trick is to use one of those auto welding helmets which have a 'grinding' mode switch and then you can follow a chalk line drawn on the job. I was impressed when I got to use mine (ebay ) Get packs of extra tip parts because you will inevitably go through them.

Even though you might not look of the bull bar have you thought what damage would happen to the truck if you a stray bit of wild life once its removed and I dont know that cab parts for that model are easy to come by
just saying ????
maybe do some mods and tart it up a bit to give it some sex appeal

Paul

After going to Burra to see what you guys have got I returned home and murdered two cutting discs and two hacksaw blades but succeeded in removing about a quarter of a ton of scrap iron!
I am reasonably certain that the speed this truck is capable of should give me time to say the Lord's prayer backwards plus two Hail Mary's before actually needing to stop . . .
. . . In my time I have hit many examples of "wildlife" including the obligatory Territory cow, kangaroos, various smaller suicidal animals, and even the community's top racehorse!! (That cost me a split window Kombi, napatji-napatji, as the horse was owned by local aboriginal :dry: ) NOT that I'm unobservant, dozing, or brain-dead, just over the last 50 years and many miles the score has accumulated; truly! :S

Slowly, slowly, work moves on. (There are several other cars under way simultaneously!)
I have checked out the donor vehicle for the replacement parts (LHF brake) but as they are approximately 200 km away will not be removing them until half past December :oops:

Meanwhile a judiciously trimmed bit of 150mm C channel has filled up the vacant space left after bullbar removal. Paint and plate purely there to keep it looking half respectable while garage door is open.

The rusted out seized up brake cylinders seem to be a standard problem with any old truck that has been sitting for while. I had my Dodge ones resleeved in stainless steel but it wasn't cheap. Brake lines and hoses may also need replacing.

Hopefully not - this is most importantly a budget build.

t

Hi PDU,
When you get prices for re-sleeving, check availability of replacement cylinders from Auto Surplus Pty Ltd., in Rooks Road, Nunawading, Melbourne. Try them for any other parts you need, also.

Not much happening around here lately, other than extending some sheddding and actually buying a new rocker cover gasket. :ohmy:
However, as it is getting a little closer to time for chasing the replacement parts I thought I'd do a quick check of what I might need with me when I go to get them.
To do this I thought I'd have a go at removing the right hand drum, First thing I decided I would need, apart from wheel brace and jack of course, was my impact screw driver. With the three retaining screws removed I was faced with a drum solidly rusted to the hub; large hammer and repeated hammering around the studs to try and break the rust apart did not work!
Assuming heat might well assist I decided not to proceed on this side but then decided to remove the left hand hub and take that with me that way if I am faced with the same situation with the donor vehicle I can remove hub and drum together, remove brake components and then slip my old hub back on.
Putting my old hub back on will allow the wheel to be bolted back on again so truck can be moved more easily later.
Glad I decided to check before going and now have a collection of tools ready and waiting with the hub.
Of course I'm open to "instant" :dry: suggestions for drum removal if you have any. :blush: