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Availability of PCD charts for Pommy trucks

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7 years 3 months ago #178440 by Dave_64
Hi,
Anyone know if there is such a thing as a PCD chart covering primarily Pommy 6 & 8 stud wheels?
I have access to Karrier 6 & 8 stud, also Leyland Terrier 6 stud in 16" rims, but not much else at the moment. Seems Sankey were one of the main producers for Pommy 2 & 3 piece tube type rims a few years back. have a couple of workshop manuals covering specific makes (Karrier) and awaiting delivery of another.
I have gleaned from people I have spoken to, plus postings on these forums from time to time, who have changed rim/wheel sizes over the years, either to improve road speed or using tyres that are far more accessible.
Just thought there may have been a site where you could look up what belongs to what and what's interchangeable. Plenty of sites open for mostly Yank car usage, NOT interested in them, looking for reasonably common applications in Pommy Light trucks, say 15-16-17" in 6 & 8 stud primarily. Austin/Bedford/Thames/Morris/Commer/BMC, the usual Pommy mid range gear.
A lot of 6 & 8 stud DO use a common pattern, BUT when it comes to rim bore diameters/ offsets, rim widths etc, another can of worms.
Any help appreciated, Thanks. Dave

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7 years 3 months ago - 7 years 3 months ago #178442 by Lang
Dave

The 8 stud are almost certainly standard British pattern. Ford and Chev blitz plus all the WW2 Bedfords, Morris etc. Came in 16, 18 and 20

Pattern continued into the 60's (and maybe a lot later) both 16 and more commonly 20 on Bedfords, Commers etc

What pattern did the J1/J2 Bedfords 6 stud 16 inch have, I bet the same?

The off-set is going to come into play on your Karrier. The Blitz and I think J1 Bedford 16 inch have no off-set so no good for duals but would look good as singles 7.50x16 up to 9.00X16.

lang
Last edit: 7 years 3 months ago by Lang.
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3 years 11 months ago - 3 years 11 months ago #210322 by PDU
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration?

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Last edit: 3 years 11 months ago by PDU.

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3 years 11 months ago #210333 by JOHN.K.
Generally ,the early smaller truck 20" 8 stud wheels from the 40s had smaller studholes ......pretty sure the PCD was the same ,but the studs were maybe 5/8 or 3/4 ..against 7/8 on the heavier trucks ,and also later trucks of the 60s and 70 s......the standard stud of the later ones is 7/8BSF in L&RH....I know my Terrier wheels (6) are interchangeable with Bedford duals ,because I used a set of wheels and tyres of a KGL on it .

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3 years 11 months ago - 3 years 11 months ago #210335 by JOHN.K.
The rim in the pic looks like its Budd type to suit american or jap trucks ..........Incidentally ,the later ISO tubeless rims have the old type PCD ,but have no bevel on the holes ,and if fitted to old type hubs with taper seat nuts ,the change is probably illegal ,and I suspect the wheels will come loose if the nuts arent tightened many times as the surfaces mate together....Another major difference is the old type taper nut hubs do not have the necesssary locating flange ,and so its very likely the rim will be off centre if fitted inner dual without cones on the studs.
Last edit: 3 years 11 months ago by JOHN.K..

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3 years 11 months ago #210339 by Dave_64
I bought a set of either Terrier or Boxer rims off a bloke on this forum quite some time ago. He went from 16" up to 20" Rims were a mixture of 6.00 and 6.5", but tyre fitter fitted both with 7.50 X16" tyres. These were to go onto the Karrier to replace the 13" rims.
I had to have the centre bores machined out on a lathe (only about 1.5mm) and had some tapered "seats" made up to fit the inside of the duals at the hub, to locate them correctly. Can use the same tapered seat on the outside of the rears and also the outside of the front.
Other way around it could have been to have wheelnuts made up with both a taper and a flat flange made up, but naturally would have had to have them done in both left and right hand thread.
Karrier rims in 6.00X16 are like hens teeth, the correct ones. I have a full set for the Karrier , but just lack a spare, so reckon that for the time the spare is going to be used, I can either get away with one ofthe Terrier rims which has been machined, along with the collets, or if the Bedford is a better fit, look for one of them.
Many thanks guys, I'll see if I can dig up the correct PCD and offsets for the Karrier rim, maybe someone can cross reference it with Bedford or other Pommy stuff.
Dave

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3 years 11 months ago - 3 years 11 months ago #210343 by Dave_64
OK, see if I have this right.
ORIGINAL 13" rims we're as follows. Overall diameter of rim shouldn't be an issue unless its too wide or offset something unusual where it may hit steering components.(This for going up to 16" rims, The modified Boxer/Terrier rims seem to clear everything ok)

Rim Centre Bore...............6+1/2" (165mm)
PCD....................8+1/8" X 6 stud
Stud holes 0.906"
Stud diameter 0.70 (17.8mm)

If a straight edge sat across top of rim and measured down to the outer safety rim..........1.102" (28mm)
If rim placed on flat floor and measured up to INSIDE of rim outer,................................ 6+9/16"
Seems there are a couple of different ways of measuring the offset, this is the way it said to do it.
So, if anyone can help out here, would be appreciated.
One make I didn't think of at the time was the smaller to mid range Thames Trader (Ford?)
Dave
Last edit: 3 years 11 months ago by Dave_64.

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3 years 11 months ago - 3 years 11 months ago #210346 by JOHN.K.
I know the later Ford D200 had the same wheels ,and can interchange........These had a very weak diff just like the Terrier ,and very few survive............Incidentally ,the 20" Austin 245 wheels will fit the Terrier too ,in place of the 16s .....the Austin 245F had the same diff as the Terrier ,but the Terrier diff was OZ Leyland made and absolute garbage .....machining so bad the bearing adjusters would sometime fall out of oversize threads.......the pommy made Austin diff was OK ,even if undersized......The Oz made Terrier hubs were garbage too ,studs loose ,and bearings would come loose ...very soft iron.
Last edit: 3 years 11 months ago by JOHN.K..
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3 years 11 months ago - 3 years 11 months ago #210388 by Dave_64
Looks like part of this subject got over to "Adding a power brake booster"
OK, SO, PDU/John.K. & Cobbadog gave the sizes of the various rims as being either 6X 18mm X205mm,
with stud diameters of 18mm, 19mm, or 3/4"
All within a whisker of what I had posted (6X17.8mm X205mm)
Only other thing required would be the CENTRE BORE size of the rim (Mine 6&1/2" or 165mm).
The set of rims I bought through this forum were off a Leyland Boxer, not a Terrier as I had first stated.
SO, if you blokes reckon that the J1 Bedford (or the Ford D200) rim/wheel comes the closest to what I posted here, it looks like that is as close as I'm going to get.
As previously stated also, the Leyland Boxer 16" rim/wheels had to have the centres machined down to fit the Karrier stepped hubs, want to avoid that if I can.
The Boxer rims were a mixture of both 6.00" and 6.50" X 16" and had to have special collets fitted as previously written.
Cant use that type of rim on the steer as they will hang up on the drag link.
As Lang said, if the Bedford rim do indeed fit,having no real offset,may only be good to fit the steer, which means keeping one wheel/tyre for the front, another for the drive axle. Not insurmountable, no worse than those bongo vans running around with their 15" steers and 13" drives!
Only running conventional tyres with tubes (not radials) straight tread on the steer, a type of cross ply mud and snow on the drive.

BTW. I measured one of the wheel studs and it comes out at 11/16", which in itself is a bit of an oddity!
I have several BSF, BSW, UNC taps etc here, nothing comes anywhere near it! Closest thread pitch is either 1.5mm or 2.5mm in this diameter stud, mine is in between at 2.oomm.

Thanks, Dave
Last edit: 3 years 11 months ago by Dave_64.

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3 years 10 months ago #210413 by cobbadog
Not too sure but you mentioned that the original rims fit onto a step in the bore this is what centres the rim on the axle. Hopefully you have tapered wheel nuts and counter sunck holes in the rims to get passed no centering by the bore if I explained that right.
Stud size you mentioned could well be right to suit the 3/4" hole in the rim. As for the TPI it should not be a metric thread at all. Now this is something I learnt when doing the steering on the David Brown, the thread on the tie rod end did not match up to anything on my list of threads either metric or imperial. In the end I found out that my list is just for the common sizes and that TPI on some steering parts used a very odd TPI, 19TPI from memory and when Googled it came up as a real size. Same for the bolts on the big ned caps it turned out to be BSB a brass thread pitch but used on a HT bolt. 2 of mine were damaged and fortunealy wee-allis came to my reacue once again with some parts from his garden ornament for which I am grateful.

Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.

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