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Chassis rivets

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7 years 1 month ago #179435 by Roughy
Chassis rivets was created by Roughy
Hi all,

I'm currently restoring the chassis of my 56 thames and it's been playing on my mind a little bit as to whether or not I should remove the rivets in order to clean up the areas where two pieces meet?

In removing the original rivets and replacing them with bolts will I loose strength in the chassis? Will it give the chassis too much flex? Am I better off pulling it apart and cleaning it up ?

Cheers

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7 years 1 month ago #179442 by geoffa
Replied by geoffa on topic Chassis rivets
Hi Roughy,

We removed all the cross members behind the cab of the 1418 we are tidying up. The cross members were all bolted to the chassis using high tensile bolts with plain nuts and spring washers. The exposed thread on all the bolts was very rusty so it was quicker and easier to cut the nut or head off each bolt. We used new high tensile nuts and bolts with spring washers when we reassembled the chassis so it is the same as it was originally.

I have looked at a photo I have of another 1418 (Not mine) and the cross members are bolted to the chassis on it. I think many truck chassis are bolted together, so I cannot see a problem using bolts.

We have done the same with an AR180 truck we have.




Geoff.
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7 years 1 month ago #179446 by mammoth
Replied by mammoth on topic Chassis rivets
The rivets will put up a pretty good fight when it comes to knocking them out so it is not an easy decision. Advanced rust between chassis components is easily seen by the rust distorting and pushing them apart, most often the case with double chassis rails. If this is not evident leave them as they are. Either sand blast or wire brush the areas of concern back to bare metal, rinse with a phosphoric acid solution (which will convert any rust you can't get to), wash off and then use an epoxy etch primer to seal it all off. Job done.
In Geoff's case the spring washers left a gap and have let in water to start the rust = don't know why they use them as high tensile bolts should be done up with hardened washers and tight enough to create their own stretch.

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7 years 1 month ago #179449 by 600Dodge
Replied by 600Dodge on topic Chassis rivets
I didnt think they even used spring washers anymore, since nyloc nuts and nordloc washers those springys are a thing of the past.

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7 years 1 month ago #179488 by dieseldog
Replied by dieseldog on topic Chassis rivets
If your replacing chassis rivets with bolts, use high tensile bolts, either Gr 8 imperial, or 10.9 in metric, and use them with hardened flat washers. I recommend the use of "prevailing torque" locknuts, because they will not loosen by themselves. In fact, I have trouble loosening the bigger ones I use, once they have been torqued up correctly.

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7 years 1 month ago #179491 by Blackduck59
Replied by Blackduck59 on topic Chassis rivets
Having extended the chassis' on the odd Inter or 3 you will likely find the rivet holes were punched and not a good fit for bolts.
We used to drill the holes after removing the rivets. Wrist wrecking if the drill grabs.
Another good bolt and nut setup use flanged heads and nuts.
Cheers Steve

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