Army Dodge AT4-114

Whats wrong with the hi beam? dip switch shiggered? Have you checked the terminal block on the radiator support next to the drivers headlight?

Answer D; all of the above
When I first turned the lights on they burned for a short time, not very bright then burned out, the smoke escaped into the sealed beam, reckon it was probably all the bad connections causing a voltage drop which I think increases resistance and current draw. Someone suggested that not being used for 30 years had corroded the filament. Doesn't really matter now, they have gone to heaven.
took the switch out, all the contacts dirty and around .5 voltage drop, cleaned everything and tightened the terminals
same with the dip switch, loose terminals and lost almost a volt here, dismantled and cleaned
worked my way to the terminal block and another large voltage drop, cleaned up but still losing about .3 v across it, looks like an ideal place to add a fuse block, amazing that the terminals are all bare there for live wires
got over to the lights and removed the earths and cleaned those, then the headlight terminals
Had old H4 globes with a burnt out beam hanging out of them burning bright for a few hours and looking good now. Purchased some new semi sealed beams with H1 globes. Planning to run new heavier power and earths back to the terminal block at least. Only running 55's so probably don't need a relay. Problem is the lenses can only go into the mounts one way because of offset "ears", and that is upside down. Tried taking the complete mounts off the radiator support and turning them but they only fit in one position as well. In a pickle, contacted the supplier, I thought if they were made for a LHD country then the patterns might be reversed, he assures me made for Oz. So some more headscratching to come.
Thought I might add a picture of the horn contact. The little ears that hold the button are

worn and I don't want to lose the lovely Dodge button. I made up a mold using kids plasticene and filled it with liquid metal type glue. The theory is I can shape it with a small rotary burr when hard.

if it was white smoke escaping into the light that indicates that the filament is open to oxygen, as seal beam lights are filled with inert gas, sealed beams are prone to air leaks cause the chemical reaction aka white smoke, probably not surprising with the age of the rigg. most horn circuits are fairly simple usually end up with the horn earth wire, coming out at the top of the steering shaft into the wheel to go through the push contacts to earth through the steering shaft, if you have any electrical queries feel free to ask away cobba

That horn button retainer is a standard Ross part. The lugs are supposed to be rubber, not bakelite (which most of them are now.)
You may have difficulty getting the button in.
Last one I got was from Studebaker, NOS, who also used Ross steering. Was about $30, I think.
I bought it for a spare and never did get to seeing if it is an exact match. Must do that...

EDIT: just found this.
midweststeering.com/product/horn-buttoncover-kit/
A couple of their steering wheels look interesting, too. I did see one on a restored Oliver tractor this year which I thought was an Inter wheel, maybe generic Ross?

Jarrod.

well I got the horn together and it works sometimes but can't help feeling something is missing, why use brass rivets on the horn plate if something was not supposed to contact it? The high beams are still upside down, pulled the old ones out of the bin and they too were fitted upside down, impossible to go any other way.
Another weird one, the fuel gauge worked sometimes and I figured since I had been into the dash to repair the oil pressure gauge line which was dripping on to the light switch, that I must have loosened a wire. Anyway after lots of testing and saying unkind words I discovered the "spare" toggle switch on the dash controlled the fuel gauge circuit. I can only guess it must have had another tank (some evidence) and this toggled which tank was being measured. Each time I played with it I must have moved the switch position.
It's like Xmas eve here, got my unregistered vehicle permit and heading off early am for an inspection. Don't expect any problems but I had hoped for a short first drive, not 70 km in something that had not moved in 30 years. If it does that then the Hill's run is just over a week away if I can find out the details.

Do you have to take it all the way to Regency park for the inspection?

I know the lights may only be 55W but I would still run relays, takes the load off the old switches and ensures maximum light from them. Agree with the heavy earth wires, too many people forget that side of the system.
I usually go back to the battery with a heavy cable then to a terminal block close to all required points.
Cheers Steve

If you cannot figure the light bases out, just cut new slots in the housing to position the beams correctly

Blackduck59 wrote: If you cannot figure the light bases out, just cut new slots in the housing to position the beams correctly

thanks Blackduck, gotta admit had not thought about taking the angle grinder to it but that would work. Will do a headlight alignment and see what I see.
600 - did not have to go to regency, we are special in the country, went to Mannum and only had to have a vehicle ID check. Think you may find the yuppies in the hills will get the full treatment by DPTI inspectors.
Anyhoo a successful trip, got the paperwork done, got the rego, got the logbook - but no driving yet. A few issues raised their head, no surprise really. Engine ran well and steered like a train, really those square edge truck tyres followed every groove in the road!! I let some pressure out and will try that but I suspect some different tyres will be needed. Had a small oil leak near the dissy, I had pulled it and cleaned the guts, new seal and clamp. Seems more likely now the oil pressure sender line is leaking, cleaned up and ready for the next run to confirm. Blinkers stopped working on the way home but should be easy fix. Biggest problem was I turned the engine off at the servo and no go again. A good Samaritan took the time to go home and get one of those fancy little battery booster things and jump started it, then had to leave it running for the next hour while waiting for the inspection bit. Might steer like a train but no steam.
Just got in from pulling the alt, one of the brushes was jammed up in the housing so tomorrow I see if anyone still stocks 50yo bits for an email alt! or may consider a better replacement, I imagine later Valiant stuff will fit and have better output but am trying to use all the original stuff if I can.
The brake lights take a while to turn off so probably some crap in the switch. Seemed to cruise around 50 mph without stress but noisy in the cab, bare steel floors so far.......
So another step along the road that never ends.

I converted my 600 to a V6 magna alternator, minor bracket mods but 95A alternator for $72 new is unbeatable and its internally regulated. I am going to try to keep my gear on WA rego for a while to avoid the hassle of inspections etc. but I would rather go on club rego for the amount of time I use mine.