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1975 Atkinson restoration

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5 years 10 months ago #193787 by Fill
Replied by Fill on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
Oilman really looks great, did you have to go out of way to find yellow shockers

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5 years 10 months ago #193801 by Oilman
Replied by Oilman on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration

Fill wrote: Oilman really looks great, did you have to go out of way to find yellow shockers


Thanks Fill. They are just standard Monroe but I was too lazy to paint them red!

1975 Atkinson, 180HP 6LXB Gardner, RTO910, 34000lb Rockwell on camelback

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5 years 10 months ago #193917 by Oilman
Replied by Oilman on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
I know that you shouldn't mix radials and crossplys. I have crossplys on the drive and I need to replace the two steer tyres. 10.00R20 seem to be easier to get than the 10.00 x 20. In reality, is it likely to make much difference on a prime mover?

1975 Atkinson, 180HP 6LXB Gardner, RTO910, 34000lb Rockwell on camelback

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5 years 10 months ago - 5 years 10 months ago #193922 by Mrsmackpaul
Unless you really want to keep 10.00's I would switch to tubeless
You will have a lot less trouble in the long run
And something else to remember is that when a tyre blows out it rarely is the cost of the tyre that hurts but the damage done to the truck

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
Last edit: 5 years 10 months ago by Mrsmackpaul.

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  • Swishy
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  • If U don't like my Driving .... well then get off the footpath ...... LOL
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5 years 10 months ago #193924 by Swishy
Replied by Swishy on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration

OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST

There's more WORTH in KENWORTH

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5 years 10 months ago #193925 by asw120
Replied by asw120 on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
I can only speak for myself, but radials are so much nicer to drive on the steer.
Cross plies are fine on the back - you don't have to worry about them separating when they get old like radials do (unless they're hard as bakelite)
11r 22.5 seem to be way cheaper than 10r 20 and rims are plentiful and cheap.

Jarrod.


“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”

― Adlai E. Stevenson II

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5 years 10 months ago #193946 by Southbound

Mrsmackpaul wrote: Unless you really want to keep 10.00's I would switch to tubeless
You will have a lot less trouble in the long run
And something else to remember is that when a tyre blows out it rarely is the cost of the tyre that hurts but the damage done to the truck

Paul



Yep, that's good advice. Tubeless can have a nail in them and still seal the hole. Also tubes will create their own punctures over time.

I'd rather have tools that I don't need, than not have the tools I do need.

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5 years 10 months ago #193958 by Oilman
Replied by Oilman on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
I still like the look of 10.00 x 20 on an older truck and I'm trying to keep it original (even though tubeless were an option when it was new).

1975 Atkinson, 180HP 6LXB Gardner, RTO910, 34000lb Rockwell on camelback

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5 years 10 months ago #194206 by Oilman
Replied by Oilman on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
Can someone explain to me how this diff lock works? I had assumed that a spring would keep it disengaged and that air pressure would engage it. However, it seems that a spring keeps it engaged and that vacuum disengages it. I haven't yet worked out how vacuum would be maintained? (or I have it completely wrong). Photo of the type fitted to my truck below.


1975 Atkinson, 180HP 6LXB Gardner, RTO910, 34000lb Rockwell on camelback
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5 years 8 months ago #195036 by Linz1607
Replied by Linz1607 on topic 1975 Atkinson restoration
I have a similiar setup on the diamond, air valve on the dash connects this actuator to the inlet manifold generated vacumn. I.e I have vacumn assists hydraulic brakes.

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