1975 Atkinson restoration

On the hairline crack in the sump you could try Loctite 290 Wick in.
Will need to use Brake Clean or the likes to get the oil out of the crack.
A top coat of Silicone (flexible), Devcon (Non flexible) or the likes to back up the Loctite
Cheers Steve

Well Im pretty sure the oil out the exhaust is just slobber from idling for long periods and sitting for a couple of years

I think it needs a good run to full heat the pistons and give some good load on the rings and will clean right up


Paul

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I took it for a very short run last night (~1km) and this morning one of the rear wheel seals is leaking badly, so next job is to pull that apart again. I was a bit worried about a couple of them when I put them together. The seal was running on a thin steel sleeve and a couple were pretty ordinary. I assume if they were heated they could be removed and replaced, but when I tried to source some, no one could find a part number. Is anyone familiar with these off a Rockwell. When I pulled it apart, the bearings were running in grease with a seal to keep the diff oil out. I was told this setup was superceded and you leave the oil seal out and allow the diff oil to lube the bearings. Photo below that I took at the time I was trying to get some.

Hi Oilman, what you are looking at is a speedi-sleeve. I buy them at the local bearing shop. All you need is to measure the OD of the shaft it is being fitted to and then you can refit the new one. I had made a mistake and had to remove one and I never thought about heating it up to remove it so that will be worth a try. I just used a cold chisel and cut a dent across the face where the seal runs to spread it and it came off no trouble.
Are you sure it is not the seal rather than the sleeve? If the sleeve is smooth and sitting flat I would look at the seal. The other thing to check is to establish the seal is running on the sleeve. This may sound funny but I had to fit 2 sleeves on the McDonald crankshaft and they had to sit in the exact place for the seal to run on.

Cobba - The sleeve itself is not a speedi-sleeve, it has a lip at the back, and I'm not sue if you can get a speedi-sleeve that narrow to fit over this one. The surface was pretty worn, which I why I was worried it wouldn't seal. When I pull the wheel off, I will check that it was running in the right place.

Would it be possible to remove the old sleeve and replace it with a speedy sleeve. Then measure the new diameter and get a seal to fit. You could probably go through the size/matching possibilities and options before doing anything drastic to the existing sleeve.

Lang

Rockwells will likely use a "CR"type unitized seal.......these kind of seals should never be fitted over a "speedy sleeve"......peel the speedy sleeve off before fitting the CR unit,which will be a "hand push in " unit.......but fitted once should not be removed without replacing with new.

Re.. leaving out the grease seal that is located on the axle nut and then lubricating the with the oil from the diff.
It may not work if the oil level plug is too low. I worked on a 1976 Atkinson with 2 speed Eaton diffs and grease filled hubs and the oil level plug was too low to convert to using just the oil from the diff. I fitted a 90 degree elbow to raise the diff oil level and always filled it up by removing the breather and putting the diff oil in through that hole.

That sleeve is what is called a "Grit Guard"
It probably wont be needed
Stemco seem to make the best seals, one style the black rubber bit spins in the steel bit so the rubber stays still on the axle, I have had a really good run out of these

Paul

Latest one Ive bought were all plastic,and hand push in .......the soft rubber sleeve seals onto the axle ,doesnt matter how grooved (within reason).........these seals work really well ,but when they start to leak,must be replaced ,in few miles the brakes will be well oiled.