1975 Atkinson restoration

Unfortunately still a lot of disassembly, repair etc before I get to assembly and paint. Goal is to have the chassis finished and painted by the end of the year. Hopefully I get there.

Looking great Oilman. Sorry I haven't had a look at the forum for a while.
With the extra holes in your chassis, don't worry about countersinking first, just run the die grinder around them so the steel is clean inside the hole and weld them up with the MIG.
Turntable is usually 10" forward of centre.
I've got the KW drill pattern that I use which is sort of a standard, not that there really is one, from memory it is 952.5mm wide with 3/4 holes at 200 spacing. I'd have to check this though. Mind the Atkinson chassis is usually a lot wider than an American truck.
Is that Camelback suspension Mack?
With drilling the chassis, I quite often just use a hand drill, you'll want to get good at sharpening your own drill bits though, and use a slow turning drill and cutting fluid. If you are any good at sharpening a drill you'll be right.
It's looking great mate.

bigcam wrote: Is that Camelback suspension Mack?
.

No, it is a Rockwell camel back suspension that was an option on the Atkinsons.

Thanks Bigcam, all good advice and much appreciated. Finished drilling all the chassis holes today and only have about 1/2 a dozen to fill. Tried to remove the jackshaft today but can't get one of the universals off. Was hoping I didn't need a puller.

Try use n a socket on d uni
cya
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Does anyone know what kingpin wear is allowed for a RWC and how it is measured? Mine has a little wear but I don't think it is excessive, but if I need to do something about it, the best time will be when I have the front axle out, not when it is all painted and back together.

OilMan
Gudday m8
Q:? is the front axle a Kirkstall axle
Is the front axle k/pin adjustable?
Wen adjusting : adjust on each lock LnR
reason in the straight ahead position th@ is where more wear slop occurs
if U adjust K/Pin in straight ahead position it could bind up wen on either lock

Butt
WaddaEyeKno

cya
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Swishy - It isn't a Kirkstall axle, it is stamped as being IH (before IH had taken over Atkinson). The model is FA215-NX and looks like it is a Meritor. I didn't realise it might be adjustable. I'll have a look over the weekend.

If the king pins have a small amount of wear pump plenty of grease in before taking it for RWC.

Ive never seen any adjustable bits.The book gives the pin dia as 1.793/1.794.,bushing reamed dia as 1.7965/1.7975.,and pin fit in beam as oo1 loose.In my experience ,the biggest drama is if the pin is loose in the beam.Generally the LHS,as it cops the worst potholes.i used to bore out the hole and sleeve it,but its kinda illegal.Lots of these now use plastic bushes,seem to wear OK.Generally,if it looks passable,the inspector will go on overall play at the wheel rim.Which means wheel bearings need to be tight as safely. possible.Its easily seem how things are by jacking the weight off the tyre,any inward movement between knuckle and beam is easily seen.Another giveaway is the cotters driven in deep.

The battery box was completely rusted out, even the 6mm brackets were rusted through in places. Today's job was to make a replacement. Still have to get a lid folded up.