1975 Atkinson restoration

Pulled the rear springs off today. Unfortunately I had to cut the 'U' bolts soi another item on the 'to buy' list.

looking real good to me
battery box came up real good, after a lick of paint you will never tell the difference

Paul

Oilman, the hubs on your front axle look like ACCO A or B, have they got Malco cast into them?
Easiest to do the kingpins with the axle in the truck mate, not out.
While the axle is in the truck it is held in place if you've got to get the sledge hammer into the pins to knock them out.
You are allowed a little bit of movement, but I've never been able to get anyone to give me an accurate description of what is acceptable, so if they've got any movement I usually just replace them. Mind, you can always see what your roadworthy man says, they've got to be pretty worn before you can feel any difference between new and old in the steering.
If they are the same as ACCO ones they'll be pretty cheap anyway, and it isn't that big of a job.
I get a machine shop to ream the bushes for me, it actually costs nearly as much as the kingpin kit, but it's cheaper than buying a reamer and they know what they are up to.

Carroll's can probably make new U bolts.

Nice job on the Battery Box too.

Bigcam, thanks for the suggestions. I don't think they are off an ACCO and they aren't Malco brand. I will borrow a dial gauge this weekend and measure the play, but I think it is greater than 10 thou at the measuring point. If I do them, I will also get them rebushed as by the time I buy a reamer the correct size it wouldn't be worth trying to do them myself.

here you go Oilman..
meritorpartsonline.com.au/Documents/Part...FLYER%20-%200516.pdf

In the past, I was always told 1/4" at the edge of the tyre. There is a code of practice for it, somewhere.

Jarrod.

Gotta agree with Cam, any movement in the king pins and it's best to replace them, same with bushes in shackles etc
I reckon it makes the whole thing a lot more predictable to drive most times and well worth the time and money

Paul

I had a quote to remove the tyres off the rim but at $25 each x 11 I decided to do them myself. I think the newest had been on for 12 years and the oldest were Olympic Trojan, so I think they were at least 30 years old. As with these things, some took 10 minutes to get off and a couple over two hours with so much rust. Still have one stubborn one to go. I'm going to get the rims sandblasted and then I was going to paint them 2 pack inside and out. Just wanted to check whether there is a better product I should use on the inside of the rim?

National Heavy Vehicle Inspection Manual Ver 2.2, in Section 4 states that movement of more than 13mm at the rim (greater than 455mm diameter) or 3mm at the king pin is a reason to fail .

www.nhvr.gov.au/files/201705-0542-nat-he...nspection-manual.pdf

www.nhvr.gov.au/files/201705-0549-nhvim-...g-and-suspension.pdf

Paul

Paul: geez! that seems awfully sloppy!

OIlman: any cross-plies will still be usable for a club truck, provided they look OK and have enough tread. If you're not going to use them, someone on here might want them. Any steel radials are past it.


Jarrod.