Late 354 Perk.

So does anyone have a book or procedure detailing the pump timing on a TU series turbo 6354?

All assembled with new filters and bled to within an inch of its life... given some decent sniffs of aerofart... and the thing isn't even issuing white smoke.

Going to try again now with some fresh batteries...

At least I've cleansed the filters of some grogans and a few baubles of moisture.

So I got it to go... fresh batteries for more cranking speed and some more start ya bastard via Dad while I hit the key.

Smoke! My god even a Jimmy Diesel would be ashamed...

Warmed up at 1500rpm and seems responsive enough but the problem is I can't let it idle.

Will run nice enough down to 1000 or even 800rpm... but at 750 it begins to stumble, (white?) smoke, will stall soon enough. If you flatten it, it still smokes like a bastard but will gradually stumble up until it clears and roars off to 2500+ with a turbo whistle to boot.

Going to set up the catch can/breather, add some rego & then go for a drive.

Cheers

The Bosch VF pumps are complicated to time.....timing is set at 1mm injection plunger lift,or something like that......and you will need a dial gauge ,mount and a rod to fit into the pump............but it sounds like there may be air in the pump.....another question.....does it have an electric shutoff.......this may be closing when alternator voltage drops......the plunger can be removed (be careful ,its spring loaded),but the engine wont stop on the throttle then,you ll have to stall it.

I leave the lines loose on the injectors,and until fuel is pouring out the nuts,I dont attempt a start.....then when running,crack the nuts one at a time for final air bleed........Incidentally,the VF pumps are supposed to be self bleeding,no Jap vehicle ever mentions bleeding the pump,just new filters.

Well it seems to run better.

Little black smoke at speed with full throttle on the open road. Can't really tell by the seat of the pants that it's making much more torque or power, but it's certainly not worse than before.

Idles much cleaner at 1000rpm, can't see any smoke at the pipe but with no breeze to speak of there is a slight haze in the vicinity.

There's something wrong though... as mentioned before right on 750rpm it stumbles & stalls. Can't hardly start it again even when it's fully warm. Punish the starter enough and when it does finally get going, there's enough white smoke to make your eyes water. Bugger it.

I'm going to get lunch...

PS it uses a cable to stop it. No electricity needed for that;)

I reckon I d be round to the pump mob first thing tomorrow.

Sounds like you have air getting in to the fuel

White smoke means air in the fuel , or at least thats what I was always told

Pressurize the tank a bit and look for a leak

Paul

I've managed to round up some slightly vague information re pump timing. The usually helpful pump people "didn't have the details in front of them" so I rang the competition and struck a fairly helpful bloke who found a manual to read.

There were slightly different piston travel specs for 6354 dot 3 and dot 4 but they're both similar enough.

With the plug removed from the top of the pump we can measure 1mm/0.040" of travel.

At that point the piston should be around 26deg BTDC... 3.98 or 3.73mm... 0.152" or 0.162"

Does that sound familiar to anyone?

What I'd like to do is set the pump timing as per the correct method & mark the new pump housing to suit.

The old bugger used to be a bit hard to start on cold mornings, but given a sniff of ether it ran pretty well all day thereafter. I really only pulled the pump because it leaked fuel & wept engine oil from underneath.

Now with basically new pump and injectors it will hardly start at all, hot or cold. Gobs of ether in order to get clouds of white smoke. Seems happy once you get to 900 or 1000rpm and drives well enough, but simply won't run below 750rpm. I can't see that timing would make such a radical difference at a specific speed, but assuming it doesn't, I'll take the whole truck to the pump people and swear at them until it's fixed.

Not up on the Perk setup.
My Cummins 5.9 with VE pump is 1.2mm at TDC which is about 12.5 degrees advance. This pump is set up with a dynamic timing advance as well.
26 degrees sounds a lot of advance.
White smoke is usually accompanied with a kerosene smell of the exhaust, unburnt fuel due to timing/bad injectors or just too cold
The adaptor for the VE is pretty cheap on fleabay, same unit for VW engines, just need a dial indicator to go with it.
Cheers Steve

The 26degrees was a bit of a guess on old mate's part I think...

I should also ask if there's a good method to determine TDC? One bit of advice I had was to drop a valve and use it to measure where the piston is... but I have a good Mitutoyo dial with 2" travel so that will reach down some deep holes, possibly even an injector hole