Split rims

I'm replacing a 3 piece split rim that has developed a crack in the spoke.

Bedford SB3.

20x6.5 to suit a 20x8.25

The rim I've sourced is a Bedford 20x6.5 2 piece. The gap between the ring "ends" seems excessive. Does this look right?

Thanks.

Here is a great guide to truck rims. Could almost be called The Bible on Rim Fitting.
I would guess if you got into your rims with a wire brush in the grooves and flanges you would probably be OK. There has to be a gap because if they were touching there is the chance the ring is actually being held open out of the groove.

Lang

www.accuridecorp.com/files/2012/10/Accur...2-Rev-4-06-22-12.pdf

Az Lang Sez
clean the groove n match bit on the lock rim
then wen assembled up with about 10-20psi (all dun in an enclosed tyre cage of corse)
tap the lock rim opisite the gap part to try and close the gap up a bit by tap n oposite then keep tap n as U wortk your way around to the split gap working both ways from oposite ..... U may C the gap close a little as the groove n other bit marry up snug
if n U get my drift
cya

Thanks Gents.
I'll give them a good clean.

So, if I can confirm from your experience, the ring gap closes when the tyre is fitted and filled.....

The current gap is 17 mm and I can't mentally see how it will up 10 mm or so.

Jon

Just walked around my old Commer, which probably are the same wheels as your Bedford, and I figure the average gap is around 15mm for the 4 wheels I can see easily.

You are not talking piston ring gap or Swiss watches and your wheel looks pretty clean and corrosion free. I still think with a wire brush you are on a winner.

This is a first class guide to rim assembly and safety.
www.bcforestsafe.org/files/Split%20Rim%20Safety%20July%2017.pdf
Lang

What you have is perfectly safe to use but as suggested get into it with a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder to ensure that it does go together well when fitting the tyre. I spent too many years fitting truck tyres and forklift stuff as well.
With those old ones use plenty of lube on the bead of the tyre so that as you inflate it slips along nicely. As mentioned it is best to do this in a cage but many of us survived to an older age with out one but always alert to what can go wrong. Another tip is to use talc powder inside the case so that the tube does not cause too much friction and then heat when travelling along roads.

Tap the lock ring constantly all the way around and as suggested start from opposite the gap of the lock ring and working each side towards the gap. You must keep doing this until both beads are well seated against both flanges. Once they are seated you can relax and inflate to your working pressure.

I'm not a expert in tyres , but i have fitted and removed i think may be in the thousands of them and i think Cobbadog has hit the nail on the head.
Clean the Rim and the Ring and tap with a hammer all the way around as stated, starting opposite the gap, filling slowly so you can check the pressurisation process
as you go. If you have a tyre cage , it's a good idea if your not very experienced. I have seen them seperate and it's not a good thing to be close to when it happens..
Hope this post is helpfull.
Cheers
Alistair

The most dangerous truck wheels I have ever seen are the Budd wheels fitted to big US WW2 trucks like Macks and Diamond T s......easily spotted as the locking collet is held to the side ring by two rivets......these rings can blow off at any time,even when the wheel is on the truck.....The safest would be the old trailer rims with a big ledge inside the bead,like the Bedford one shown.......A Sankey Benson ,I think.......Dunlop rims were a bit different ,as were Rubery Owen.,and there are important differences between med and HD wheels and lock rings.

If you don't have a cage, you can use each end of a hooked chain at 9 and 3 o'clock to the gap.

V8Ian
You just beat me
Bluey