Picked up a 72 AT4 114 Express Utility factory V8 and plan on doing a mild resto.
Going to start on the chassis over Christmas by restoring the springs. I've removed the rear spring perch pin locking dowels but don't know how to remove the perch pin.
Is there a tutorial or can someone advise how to remove them. Do they screw out or knock out.
Also want to move the hand brake to the diff as I want to run a late model Magnum 318/727. I know the D5N diff is already equipped with hand brake they are far and few between here in Perth so my question is has anybody done the conversion and what parts have they used if not Dodge
ar110, Understand vehicle came out std with bent 8, but I also see you wish to use the 727 tranny and different rear end. What box / axle did it come to you in? Was it garden variety 4 speed/ Chrysler Corp. diff? Or was the “Express Utility” a special build? Dave
Auto was optional in these. I don't know where the handbrake was, though. Are the backing plates pressed for cable entry> might just need to drill them out. Could be one of those things which are much more common in the US. (to source rear cable and actuating arms, etc)
Nowhere is there warmth to be found
Among those afraid of losing their ground
For those amongst us who are ignorant of the term “Express Utility”, can someone enlighten us with a bit of info, a photo would be even better? Some google references to “Sport utility” both dual and single cab under the term, but a bit hazy. Maybe another description that the Seppos have foistered on us? What makes an Express Utility different from the usual tray/tub/Ute??? Dave
They were generally made for newspaper delivery.(too rough riding for ambulances)...Inter and Dodge made v8 trucks for the paper delivery.......the Isuzu s and UD s killed em all stone dead in about a year.Inter even sold a UD as an Inter to try to catch up.
Dave: Don't know the differences. To me just looks like the typical 114 tub back ute but has Express Utility on the compliance plate.
4 speed box and bellhousing are there and has the factory front motor mount and remote vacuum assist brake booster. Diff looks like standard 8 stud D60
Handbrake lever is mounted on the left of the column and not on the right kick panel like normal. May be pre D5N change over.
Jarrod: Backing plates are pressed for handbrake so easy to drill access so I will need extended cable and actuators
Back onto my query. Anyone know the perch pin removal method
Thanks roKWiz. I have 2 workshop manuals and both show that same set up but explain the tooling is only relevant for 3 ton upwards though my 2 ton has the same perch and pin set up. 1 ton have a different perch and pin fitted. They don't have the grease nipple where the tooling screws into. See pic attached of my 1 ton perch and pin nothing like what the manual shows. In fact that diagram doesn't looks pre AT4-D5N series
Would the slotted end sticking out be some sort of lock nut? If you removed it first (looks well rusted in) then used a large socket to turn the hex nut? My books neither show much detail nor do they tell you how to remove the bushes. Not much help I fear.