Powering up the loader

Guru help required, the inter super loader is lacking power, 12 volt power, some time in its past the probably 6v genny was heaved out, so it now runs ofrf a 12 volt battery but no charging system. I have a 12v alternator with inbuilt reg, shouldn't be too hard to make it fit, but..... always a but or two....
which way does it spin,
does it matter
Three wires, were to and from.
I don't actually have an ignition or anything resembling one.
I have a wire from the starter switch which is live to the coil. If I want to shut her down I pull a lead off the battery. I assume a switch in the coil line will work as an ignition switch.

I should also say the two spade terminals are marked R and L and the ring terminal is B.




OK, .... be gentle, and simple please.

Unless the loader runs different to most engines the rotation will not be a problem.
Terminals, largest will be to the battery, not 100% on the other two but 1 will be power from the ignition as an exciter. With an internal regulator that should be all in needs.
Did that come off a Nissan? Maybe able to check their wiring diagrams or if you have auto spark close just ask them. ( or Googlr using the numbers off it)
Cheers Steve

The wire that runs to the ignition switch must run via a kight globe to act as the 'exciter', otherwise the alternator will not make charge until you are at high revs. I had this issue with the little grey fergy that is Dees' delight and it runs an alternator and had trouble charging. Spoke to my auto electriciam mate and he gave me the heads up about running the globe. Hopefully this helps.
If more info required I will lift the bonnet and trace the wires and see where they all run. Let me know. Bit busy with the pre chrissy rush so can't tell you how soon I can do it at the moment.

Whether it actually needs the light/resistance on that terminal depends on how the alternator is wired. Some use that circuit to excite and others it is purely for the light.
Would need the ID of the connections to be sure, should be letters cast into the housing alongside the connection point. Maybe those letters on the ID plate, the L would be for light and the R for switched power feed.
Cheers Steve

12 volt from battery to the threaded terminal

12 volts thru eithet a oil pressure swith or key switch to the R spade lug

Give it a try and report back

Paul

Just looking at that tag on the alternator, looks like a Nippon-denso?? If so, the power IN to excite the field would probably have to run through a low amp/wattage pilot light. Mine only rated around 1 amp, any higher , the alternator won’t charge. Had to try several values until found the right one. That’s on mine at least anyway.

BlackDuck deserves three or for beers from his fridge, I had to do some head scratching but I do believe I did take the alternator off my old 1500 ute, with the 180B motor n box.
I assumed it was a mitsubishi alternator because that's the name plates and from some go ogling, seem they supply v a few manufacturers. I managed to sneak in to the shed undetected in daylight and took a couple more snaps, same subject better angle.



I Ave searched Mr Google and fo u nd my alternator and drawing with the B, L,R, contacts but not wiring diagram, so I am assuming that the B is battery and L is lamp, then I guess R is the voltage sensor that hooks back to B as per below.






What can possibly go wrong.... better make a bracket and fit it in.

I'll go

B = battery
R = regulator
L = light

Just guessing

Paul

And you may need a Bosch regulator like this
www.ebay.com.au/i/233430135165?chn=ps&no...IM6eZ7QaAlYVEALw_wcB

Wire from ignition goes thru D+ and from DF to R on the alternatorscrew it to the frame or chassis or block

May not need this but ???

Paul

This should answer every alternator plug question.

s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/1704040pdf

Lang