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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 05:28 #214216

  • PDU
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Because I'm going to Adelaide today (Saturday) I made a start yesterday afternoon - and it would appear the clutch plate and flywheel need to be removed to reach the "hidden" bellhousing bolts behind them. Normally that would be straight forward enough, simply rotate the engine . . . :blink:

. . . great, IF the engine isn't seized!? :pinch: Considering the remnants of number six con rod, and a small chunk of piston still clinging to the gudgeon pin, is not jammed in what is left of the cylinder walls I then filled each of the remaining cylinders with some oil/petrol mix to soak while I'm away. Hopefully that will allow me to turn it when I return???

I must point out, the manual is decidedly lacking in information about the area in question, and devoid of any helpful illustrations of the manner of attachment.
Why is life so cruel to me, what have I done to deserve this??? :unsure:
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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 08:44 #214218

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PDU is exactly right about the holes in blocks and heads. The welch plugs were probably the cheapest and easiest way to plug them when new.
At least one of the engines I did up in the days of my tender youth definitely had a welch plug behind the flywheel. I cannot remember if it was my first car, a 1948 Vauxhall, or a mate's Holden or what it may have been. One or more of them also had a welch plug on the BACK face of the head, nice and close to the firewall. Some of them had two or three welch plugs on the side of the block, cleverly covered by the exhaust manifold.
I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,

Now I find I can't do any work in this position!

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 09:54 #214221

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Here is the suspect Core Plug at the rear of the block behind the bell housing (courtesy of Richard Farrant HMVF Forum)
Pierre
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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 10:00 #214222

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Hi guys, well after 20 Years I managed to get her running for a few seconds.
I was hoping to hook up the new fuel line to the carby via the fuel pump this being a safer option than running a gravity fuel from a container & plastic lines.
Just could not get the fuel pump to work at all. I put in a new diaphram & new valves & tested it on the bench with in & out fuel lines into jars containing fuel but no luck. I even primed the bowl with fuel & still no go.
Did the same with the unit bolted to the motor still nothing.
I checked there was Plenty of fuel in the tank & no leaks in the line or joins. I can suck fuel from the line with my mouth (ask me how I know!)
Pulled this flipping pump apart 3 or 4 times checking the diaphram operation & that the valves are in the correct position!! :angry:
Q:- Any clues on the AC fuel pump or if I've missed something appreciated and/or recommendations for suitable electric pump.

I've got a couple of videos of progress but the files are too large, so I need to work out how to reduce these.
Q:- After the short run I got 25psi of oil pressure,not sure how that stands up on this cold start. Any thoughts on what it should be cold / hot idle?

I'm resigned to the fact I need to run a gravity feed now,

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so that's the next task tomorrow or Monday. (see photo)
Pierre
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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 11:00 #214224

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Can anyone advise how to reduce the size of a video clip. It's currently 33MB!
thanks
Pierre
Pierre

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 11:19 #214227

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Can you test the valves with the pump apart as appropriate to make certain they are sealing in the correct direction?

Jarrod.

“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”

― Adlai E. Stevenson II

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 11:53 #214229

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When tightening the clamping studs hold the lever arm up, if tightened in the flat position the diaphragm may not be able to flex.
David.

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 16:26 #214238

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Well I finally found the problem with the Fuel Pump!
I just wasn't pushing the lever in far enough!
There is a noticeable difference at half force on the lever which I assumed was the end of the stroke, but NO it goes further - THERE'S MORE.
Working fine now, sorry guys.

This is crazy, I need a holiday! ::blush: : :silly: :lol:

Will run the motor again with the correct fuel lines fitted & double check the oil pressure & smoke situation before I pull it out to tackle all the welch plugs & refurb the head. Will see what's in store re the bottom end as well.

cheers Pierre
Pierre

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 20:55 #214247

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Great news - now go find a spare "Ernie" to video the start. :blink: Maybe go back and see how long my little video ran for, that was kept short to ensure it loaded onto the forum okay.

PS Did Richard have a complete view of the rear of the block that you could share? I have just returned home and will still attempt to turn B for's original engine so I can remove the clutch and flywheel assembly. :unsure:

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Bedford K Restoration 29 Aug 2020 22:25 #214251

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Hi Morris, you have perfectly describe a Holden Grey motor with the position and number of welsh plugs, 1 at the back of the ehad and the 3 along the block behind the exhaust manifold, then lets not forget the small ones in the head again near or under the manifold/s.
At a best guess Pommy engines would run at 35psi up and possibly at 40psi. Mini ran 60psi.
Glad the fuel pump is sorted.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
STUBBOURN B@ST@RD

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