When I did the linninnnngs on the David Brown they are rivetted but require extra long rivets to attach the top and bottom to the shoe as the metal is very thick there. Could not buy them anywhere so I bought some 10mm aluminium round rod and made them up my self on the lathe. They worked a treat being soft aluminium they burred over no problem. A bloke who worked in a brake factory locally told methat is all they did when something unusual was needed.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
I think some bonding needs proper heat treatment not just glueing and this may lead to variations.
When I got the brake shoes relined for my 1941 Chev panel van to take to Normandy at a mate's place in Texas I pulled them out of the box and as I dropped them gently on the floor two linings just fell off the shoes. Upshot was the worker lost count of the shoes going into the oven and two only had uncured glue.
Talked to the boss and he said the time was critical and many places have uncontrolled temperatures and "looks about cooked" timing procedures. Just to be safe he took them all back, rivetted them and gave me all my money back.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, Pierre
I dunno about the bonding used these days for brake shoes
I have in recent times, say the last 3 or 4 years pulled brake drums off to find a shoe unglued just floating inside
I have never had a riveted shoe do this however
I have pulled plenty of drums off and found the drum stuffed due to the shoes been worn down and rivets cutting grooves in them
I guess its a catch 22
Paul, My Theory is; It's the Dirt/Dust that gets in the Rivet Holes in the Linings that Wears the Grooves in the Drums..
I fill the Rivet Holes up with Permatex High Temperature Silastic (the blue Stuff) & trim up with a Stanley knife blade. The Dust can't get in there & My Drums then wear very even.
I found the Cheap clear Gutter sealant Silastic will Ball up & roll out of the Rivet Holes..
"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, Mrsmackpaul, PaulFH, Pierre
Tried to fire up the motor to check pressure plate & clutch operation, but she just won't run now.
Was running ok 29/04 (hot wired) prior to fitting new wiring, but now turns over & runs for 5 seconds with a cough & fart & then just cuts out. Distributor & Timing have not been altered.
Have checked wiring & fuel & all looks OK, have spark at the plugs.
Disconnected the new wire from the starter to the SW coil & hot wired from Battery to the SW coil as previously done & same result.
Yeah, that's one of the next options Jarrod.
I think the fuel pump is playing up, it works fine when you disconnect the fuel line from the carby & hand pump it, but it's not pumping fuel once connected & bolted up to the camshaft.
Have made sure I've got the arm on top of the camshaft & the arm doesn't look worn.
As stated before have not altered this since the last start?