I presume you have new cut glass. If so it might be an idea to measure the hole both height and width and make sure the glass plus twice the width (better three times the width) of the web between the body and glass does not exceed the hole size. If you are using old glass but new rubber, do those measurements - if they are exactly the same or more than the body hole you are on a hiding to nothing.
You should not be having this trouble
The following user(s) said Thank You: cam245, cobbadog
The web in the rubber is 4mm so that should fit? I think.
I can say that it is not the original spec rubber. Although the channel dimensions for inner and outer are correct the profile is taller than original and not as fat hence maybe why it’s harder to pull through.
Cam, you mentioned that the new glass is 5mm undersize to the opening and that the web in the rubber is 4mm. Is the 4mm twice the actual size of the webbing or you are now 8mm thick which would make the glass 5mm too big?
Dish washing soap as a lubricant or silicone spray may also help but as mentioned it should not be this tight.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
I think he said 5mm all around so he should be OK.
Silicon spray is the way to go. Good for the rubber, very slippery and won't hurt the paint or start rust underneath.
Just thinking that the hole shape may have very tight corners. The original rubber was probably a full molded ring shaped to go around. The new rubber may thicker and not going right up into the corners, holding the glass out. It may require careful lobster-tail cuts taking small wedges out of the inside of the rubber to help it make the tight turn.
Always much better to put the rubber on the glass and do all your string pulling and levering against the body. This is much safer and allows more violent methods.
Hi Does anyone know the correct routing for the live wire from the Windscreen Wiper Motor to the battery.
The cable on my K was missing.
I currently have it laid around the inside windscreen surround and down the side of the dash, but can't find a hole through the firewall. (see marked up photo attached with blue line)
Yes I can drill one & put in a grommet anywhere, but just thought I'd see if there is a correct run & spot through the firewall.
The wire almost certainly went from the wiper motor into the door pillar. You should be able to put a bit of welding wire or similar up into the pillar which will be wide open at the bottom behind the door jamb about the level of the bottom of the dash beside the glove box. The wire will stick out the top behind the visor panel. You may have to fiddle with the roof lining to get at it.
Tie the wiper positive cable to the welding wire and draw it down and out the bottom of the pillar.
By far the neatest and easiest way is not to go through the firewall but just run the cable across to the ignition switch. You can hook it up to the positive lead on the back of the switch for constant power (like if you want to watch movies at the drive-in when it is raining). Much better to hook it to a switched terminal on the ignition so when the key is off so are the wipers for safety.
This will almost certainly work perfectly. Recommended is an in-line fuse. Modern wipers with powerful motors and big blades would be much better with a relay to give them a full 12v at all times but your wiper motor is so puny that it will work just fine running through the ignition switch.
I can not tell if your motor has the on-off switch on the body (above instructions apply) or if it relies on a separate on-off switch. If that is the case follow the above instructions but run the wiper cable to the wiper switch then continue from the wiper switch to the ignition as explained.
The earth cable can go to any eye-pleasing place so long as it has contact with the body metal work. It might even work without the earth wire from contact of the body where it goes through the hole in the roof to the wiper arm. If you find it will work just by body contact you should put a star washer between the wiper and the roof on the shaft to guarantee perfect earthing.