A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

BigDownUnder
Gudday m8
wen U really desperate for a head gasket
if the ol one is still in reasonable shape
thro the gasket in the bath o/Night in sum water
eye dear B n the asbestos between the sheets of copper will absorb the water n gro a little
leavin U to squeeze the B jesus out of it when U clamp it down under the head
Have heard sumthing about apply n silver paint to gasket
but the X purts will verify th@
cya

If you want to find out the general condition of the engine at minimal cost, i would suggest pulling it apart and having a look and a measure. That will either save you spending any money on a head gasket, or confirm that buying new gaskets is worthwhile.

Swishy got it:- There is a thread on here about generous application of silver frost paint and various related products that stood the test of time. Onetrack would have the answer....

I wasn't very clear - I meant the engine would use some oil. (which is not a big issue for a club truck)
I would want to make sure the ports in the head were clean - the last thing you want is an annoying, incurable miss one one cylinder because some crap got stuck in one of the valves - been there, done that!

Jarrod.

Swishy

I did not believe you could be so irresponsible.

You know full well if he discovers the head gasket is asbestos he must not touch it. After placing a barrier and warning signs around it he should ring the council for their specialist removal team who will be there in under 6 weeks. Alternatively he can hire a private removal team who will remove the offending item for $500 (plus $220 dangerous items fee from the dump).

Failing that, he can soak it in water and give it a try as you suggested.

Lang

I found fixing forklifts that silastic is a far better head gasket sealer than paint.,and stays somewhat rubbery even inside the combustion chamber .Keep the silastic thinly spread so it doesnt block up the water jacket or radiator.

Back in the days when silver frost actually had some guts in it, aluminium dust from memory, that was what was thought to be ebst for sealing imperfections. I used to do this all the time. Did it work, who knows because I never had to remove the head again. Now I use a copper stuff out of a spray can. I have used this stuff a lot from assembling fully reconditioned engine in the David Brown so all surfaces were machined flat and smooth so really wasn't needed, but the one I did use it on was a head gasket that was God knows how old, fairly ordinary to look at and had a screw driver mark in one edge. This is a Permatex product, sprayed onto both sides of the gasket and I did the ehad and top of the block. It is sticky stuff if you get it on you but that gasket is still in place. I cant remember the cost but about $20.00 tops. It was a bit of time back when I bought it so price could be way out. Would I buy another can if doing a head, YEP!

Thank you, all of you, what a wonderful bunch you are - given me a good laugh and brightened my day a little.
In order:
Swishy - Yes it is the dreaded A word, but if it was in "reasonable shape" do you think I would have been so concerned?
The first bit of damage is almost insignificant - near cylinder number 1 and possibly damaged as I lifted the head and sections of it clung to the block??? This in itself does not concern me at all. :huh:

The next one, between cylinders 4 and 5, is now missing a chunk, I believe this remained on the block but then dropped off! It is between two water galleries, so not really an issue either that necessarily would need rectifying???

But then we come to the deusy, between cylinders 2 and 3. :ohmy: A big chunk missing, a small piece still on the block, and which I have purposely not cleaned off - being mindful of possible methods of bodging it back together. (I didn't say that!?) What was concerning me is the bit that is lifting near the number 3 combustion chamber, plus the chunk missing there also.

180wannabe - Pulling apart and checking, is time consuming, can be very expensive, and ultimately I should end up with a great engine . . . but how far am I intending to go with this vehicle? It is much simpler to confirm it runs and then revisit the head gasket if it proves necessary.
Sarge - Onetrack? I'll look him up when I finish here, but this is what I was hoping for with my last post.
asw120 - I have cleaned it out as best as I can for now, and good enough to see if/how it runs. Done a few porting jobs in the past, but not for this one. :lol: Certainly looking healthier than before.
Lang - Similar sense of humour as me . . . warped, but funny, thanks.
John.K. - N ever heard of using Silastic before, I wouldn't have thought it would have survived, particularly in the combustion chamber? (Huh? Why in the combustion chamber?) Mind you, that would probably work (if it works) on the deusy???
Ah, the great stationary engine dismantler cobbadog also, while I was correcting some errors AND with a product that sounds like it might be more durable than silastic, or a combination of both?
Back to the combined brains trust for any more gems of useful information . . .

As a sidenote I suspect the reason for the valves being rusted was caused by several things; bonnet was left open; aircleaner was not on (although an ill-fitting aftermarket thing was perched on the carburettor when I got to it); and rain down the carburettor filling the inlet manifold and swamping cylinder number 5 (valve open) and seeping into cylinder 6 (valve closed), with a wee bit into cylinder 4.
The fact there was no water present in the sump seems odd.
AND
The rings will receive a few more dousings with light oil, after which they'll have to fend for themselves!?

Here are some new gaskets for you

www.autosurplus.com.au/gaskets/head-gaskets/