A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

There is a good YouTube video showing you how to do just that.

What is it called overnite, and is it with reference to recharging or retrieving the paint? 

Meanwhile, masking now removed (not without some drama - initially removing before the paint was completely dry!) and hung again quickly for piccie . . .  

 

Black to come later, other things on the go at the moment.  

Looking PDU

I remember watching a bloke (when I was a bit younger) that had a flat, as in no air pressure aerosol can of maybe WD or CRC

Anyway, out with the trusty air lance
Popped the nozel off the pack and forced air back inside the can

Now me been a complete pussy have never tried this

I would be concerned about the can going pop in my hand

Not gunna say it was easy to do as the was some choice language going on until it was properly lined up then it just went in and the aerosol can was good to use

Paul

Paused for lunch and spotted the air pressure delight from Paul, um, er, I think I'll give that a miss thanks and go back to tidying some of the mess that has somehow crept into my shed . . .   

Current efforts are being directed towards the roof, which needs a lot of work before B for goes anywhere.

I have "re-charged" cans of WD40 with the air compressor and got them working again no worries.  I am not recommending it here, just saying i have done it. 

An Uncle told me years ago that air will soon dissipate out of an aerosol can again, compared with the "proper gas" put in them from new.  I don't know if this is right or not, but my re-charges did seem to go flat again soon after.

Brett.

2 things of need to know, how much air pressure do you inject? 
Would air in a can if paint start it curing?

Playin with spray cans
this clip comes to mind





[url=https://youtu.be/EiZoSuNej5U?t=192[/url]Thank U Mr Bean[/url]

Swipe Copy Paste into new windo
[url=https://youtu.be/EiZoSuNej5U?t=192[/url]LOL
cya [/url]

Good one Swishman 

Paul

And on to the roof . . .

The two 10mm thick wooden sheets that have just been sitting up on the roof for ages have now been sorted, even though there have been the usual issues along the way. Initially I dragged them off to replace the tek screws with pop rivets (flatter profile) and then measured the minimum width needed to cover the pop rivets. Two reasons for doing this, one was to keep the lift-up part as much out of sight as possible, but more importantly to reduce the weight on the cable lifting system. Two inches approximately off the side was easy enough to do, but then I had to narrow the 1.5mm sheet metal sheets also, not forgetting a 10mm fold down the two edges to cover the wood.

Amazingly the sheet metal cut, and folded fitted perfectly (definitely measured more than once, and very carefully) then heaved the whole shebang up onto the turret again. Once I had got everything squared up and ready to drill some basic locating holes I stopped for some lunch, feeling quite pleased with myself . . .

. . . on return to work I started to lift the roof and my super dependable lifting mechanism spat the dummy! Maybe the weight up there was too much and one leg tore the locating screws out of the floor, twisting the combined lifting leg/cable guide/pulley mountings sideways by about 30 degrees!    

It looked horrendous but with the aid of a crow bar and some determination I was able to coax things back to a position close to where it had been previously and replaced the super small screws that had torn out of the floor with some longer/stronger/bigger ones. Interestingly the small screws were from the pop top caravan that supplied the mechanism, although the roof on my truck is probably half as much again in size and  much heavier compared to the plywood and aluminium one it had lifted previously.

Now that all being said, I had been wary about the weight (prior to the failure, not because of it) but it had been working so well until this point in time. I was still confident that it could manage the lift  and, feeling positive about the revised arrangement, jacked it up successfully. 

Despite the successful outcome I then decided to reduce the weight by removing the 10mm sheets and used some flimsy three ply instead. Hmmm, the 3 ply was only about  3 or 4mm thick which left me with way too much metal down the sides?  So another day was spent cutting the new sheets to size and folding the excess metal back underneath - which is probably a better arrangement than just a straight fold. Add to all this trying the sheets and making minor adjustments until they were finally screwed to the frame. 

Unfortunately the metal sheets I used were 1.8 metres long which is not long enough for the actual 3.8 meter roof, even with minimal overlap between the sheets. I had some pieces for the ends but one is still too short and I need to get  a new one cut and folded. Easy enough to sort out, and all is looking good now.

 

I was going to put some circular (pseudo) filler caps up on top, but a fortunate discussion with a fellow Men's Shed member has resulted in two skylights which are sitting on top to see where they might be placed. Along with the two bits either end of the roof the next thing will be to make two bases for the skylights, setting, marking, drilling, cutting, folding, attaching, and sealing them!

Maybe then I can try some of the replacement paint on the roof and window shades either side. 

Yeah, that should keep me busy . . . 

Now you’re done all that work, is it the wrong time to mention composite aluminium and plastic panels, comes in many colours and can be painted. Called various names, dibond was the first one , I used to get it from Vulcan ullrich aluminium in Adelaide. It’s designed to be used in box sign building, but can be used in building, I’ve used it in everything from light boxes to cladding transportable ticket offices.
Gumpy