A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Ive sleeved lots of Wagner type /PBR master cylinders using bronze bushings from a bearing shop....generally take two ,as one wont be long enough...........price of brake sleeving is out of this world for the work involved..........used to be $30 for a plain wheel cylinder and $100 for a dual line master,or a big 1&1/2'' PBR cylinder.............brother says he was quoted over $1000 for a PBRVH44 booster ..........did it himself at a total cost of around $20

John K: I have spoken to the guy who has rebuilt my cylinder and said I would see if I could find out more, could you give some more information of how he performed the cylinder work please, . . .  Over to you.  

grumpy gumpy: Sent you a message on Channel 40  

Hi PDU, thank you for the number, I had another one for him (could have been his wife’s)and his home number. And having seen John rebuild a master cylinder and the equipment he used, it would be interesting to see how someone did it with bronze bushes, especially the final honing of the bore. Always keen to learn
Gumpy

House number I relayed to you should be 75 not 46 grumpy gumpy. My wife got hopelessly lost trying to find her way off the main drag and became so confused it was almost a phone divorce   as she said she would never, ever, pick up anything for me anymore. AND that was before we even realised the street number was incorrect. 

Just another page in my continuing list of cock-ups!  

Fortunately our daughter calmed her down somewhat and went back with her from Aberfoyle Park and, after going to the wrong house, I relayed John's phone number to them and the gear is now in their hands.   

I couldn’t tell you his house street number but I know exactly which house it is, we were neighbours for 37 years
Gumpy

Despite the silence from my end the sands are still running through the hour glass. Although I have been very busy on everything else in my life and (despite the hot weather conditions) have reassembled all the brakes and I'm back to the bleeding stage once again.

I actually dropped the sump today to fit the front and rear seals but had to stop as I almost collapsed from heat exhaustion!  The cold shower I had afterwards was absolutely fabulous. 

PDU and B for are still alive, but not as active as before . . .  
 

Sump all back in place and currently replacing the exhaust downpipe which was only suitable for the initial trial run.

I had planned to change the exhaust system to one with the muffler mounted under the front crossmember. Consequently despite very tight spacing to fit a right-angle bend in the system between the muffler and the front spring, all is proceeding at a notably leisurely pace. 

Considering an inability to move B for to the exhaust shop they will be creating the new downpipe from measurements only - working at a "no rush, sometime over the Christmas break" timeframe!?  

Pictures will come once I've completed the mounting brackets for the muffler, after which the fun to actually create the tight bend will begin . . .  

In the meantime Christmas/New Year good cheer to all from PDU.  

Progress is progress, when it comes to exhaust systems my Dad always liked to say of the old buggered exhaust system
"That exhaust is exhausted"
Thanks for taking us all on the journey throughout the year

Paul

PDU wrote: 'all is proceeding at a notably leisurely pace'.

Southbound says 'perfect'.

Even working at Southbound's "perfect" pace the muffler is now temporarily in place.

To achieve this I supported the muffler, where I wanted it to end up, on an instant wood supporting frame which allowed me to figure out the outlet pipe positioning and mark it accordingly (this will be the last thing that will be welded once the new exhaust is made). 

Next I worked out where the supporting bars would need to be on the ends of the muffler and used some angle brackets from two existing holes on the crossmember above for the rigid mounting of the muffler (there will be a flexible coupling between the downpipe and difficult bend section yet to be produced). 

Once the mounting bars were welded to the end of the muffler I thought I'd check to see if it would work and pictures taken . . . 

The outlet pipe was slotted back onto the marks and even I was amazed every thing is spot on!?   The lower edge of the muffler is 50mm above the lower edge of the axle, and the muffler is neatly centred.

This is what caused the tight space between the end of the muffler and the spring on the inlet side . . .
 
I am not looking forward to creating a tight bend from the new pipe when it comes.

The above pictures make the muffler look somewhat noticeable BUT the pictures were taken while laying on the floor, the following picture was taken at headlight height and about half a dozen paces away from the truck - barely noticeable, astounding result.  
 

Next step is sit back and wait for the exhaust guy to bend up the two sections of pipe as per my drawings (and to suit the manifold flange). Sorry if some of my explanations become long but I hope it may help others who are uncertain how things actually happen. PDU over and out (for a while).