A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Congratulations.   A massive job over the years. Well done to you.

Only short clip. but this was its first registered run, courtesy of wife. 

www.facebook.com/glenys.stephens.5/video...d_activity&ref=notif

That video might only be available to your facebook friends. I couldn't see it.
Happy to hear it's alive, though.

Jarrod.

I mostly lurk on this forum but have been following this thread for a while now with quite a bit of interest. Congratulations on the first drive after all the effort you've put in.

Well done, can't see the video but I can imagine the smile on your face

Great news

Paul

PDU,
I can't see the video either, can you make it available to us mere mortals?

I would if I could but I can't, sorry Morris (and others). 

If my wife had used my phone I could have and I have no idea how to just kinda copy it across.  

Meanwhile I have sorted the mirror issue with a slight bend on the outside edges . . .   . . . but not the oil gauge yet, for the life of me I cant get the original fitting out!  It is simple enough but I will have to remove the drip tray on that side for better access and leverage. (perhaps the jolly green giant worked on the assembly line where they were screwed in?  

PDU
I don't know anything about Bedfords but I doubt that removing the oil gauge sender from the block will show you anything. I stuffed around with the one on my 1960 Morris and all I achieved was a leak from the rubber hose on the oil line. I went to a hydraulic hose place a mate recommended and paid an arm and a leg for a replacement. My oil gauge still did not work. I replaced it with one from another friend and that does not work either. I think the gauges may be gummed up with old oil. I plan to try to get some solvent (petrol) into the gauge when I work out how to do it without ruining the face of the gauge.
 

Morris

If you can remove the line from the gauge it would be pretty easy to clear it from each end with a syringe of petrol or thinners. A squirt in the fitting in the back of the gauge should clear anything there. There is absolutely no reason to get stuff on the face of the gauge as the oil is a closed circuit with the expanding bourdon tube.

If the gauge is of the type where the line is soldered into the instrument (common on water temp lines but unusual on oil lines) you may be forced just to use solvent and a length of fine wire. It does not take much to operate as there is almost zero flow, just pressure change so if you can clear only a pinhole in the circuit it will work.

A trick that is used in aircraft is to fill the oil pressure gauge line up - with syringe - with really fine sewing machine oil before attaching it to the engine. On a cold day the thick engine oil can take quite a while to push itself up the line whereas the fine oil gives an instantaneous reading. Because it is a dead end circuit the fine oil does not circulate out and remains in the line, it just makes the bent tube straighten and transfer that movement to gears and the pointer.

 

 

Lang,
Many thanks for this. It explains it in simple language. Apparently there is no magic involved.

Morris.