Timing marks can turn up in the most strange places on engines. Flywheel ws always popular looking through a hole covered by a place, harmon ic balancer was another one. Then the flywheels on some stationary engines had a single line stamped on the outer rim and this had to line up with a pushrod or a "V" to aling with line on a stator plate as on the Villiers 2 strokes. I too used th thumb over the hole as an indicator and then a long thin screwdriver on engines with OHV jobs. Even finding that position the TDC on compression is close enough to adjust the dizzie with the points open then start and fine tune the spark timing by ear.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
Sounds like a more sensible way of passing the time cobba, the temperature is really sapping the strength out of me the way it is. Perhaps I should go back to my plastic model of the Bedford?
The model stalled as I did not have the full size version finished to the point where I could continue (sides and turret out the back) . . . plus I was looking for some sheet plastic that I could use to make the rear section. Fortunately, while doing dump duties for the council (Men's Shed arrangement until the end of January) I have picked up some pieces that might work, so maybe that will be the go, like your railway modelleing, at least until the temperature drops a wee bit???
That and a bit more wiring in B for, from the ignition switch "on" to the other switches. I have organised power from the battery to the fuse block, then to the igniton switch, back to the fuse block, and into the "instant" supplied loom. With the whole shebang draped across the left hand floor in the cab, and out the door, I have identified all wires within the loom (including current "surplus" wires, but more importantly those that will run to the switches) and checked they are live when they should be according to ignition switch position Now it is a case of sorting out where to run the wires when the fuse block is mounted back in the dash. In particular the wire that will light up the small blue lights on the switches that shows they are active (and basically that the ignition is on), and the six wires (one from each fuse) to the individual switches. I'm not worried that there are no wires beyond the switches to their relevant items at the moment - that will obviously happen later. It is difficult enough considering the best path that the wires will take and where/how to stash the "surplus" ones safely until (if ever) they are needed!? I could have bought a smaller loom (with less wires/fuses) but from previous wiring jobs I have found it is a better to include provision for later possibilities!? Now I'm trying to plan placement of wires into my new loom(s) in one go - not having to add wires later because I forgot something!
For now I will simply add a couple of temporary wires to the coil and fuel pump, and the rest will gradually happen I guess? What fun? It is hard enough figuring it out, and probably twice as hard attempting to explain it here!
Why, why, why do I do this, I ask myself as I slog on . . . at least it is reassuring knowing I'm not alone.
Your last question is so easy to answer, we love the challenge.
It is fun to 'guess' how many extra wires to run when planning for another accessory in the future so just by a best guess is all you can do or add 2 many 3 extras and tuck the rest away. Keep the extras away from any moving parts like a wiper arm if they are under there. If you intend to install a universal heater against the firewall then keep the vents up at the bottom of the screen if any clear to fit the ducting and their ends from a later model car.
As for your model finding things that are appropriate is half the battle. I could have bought a little plastic tool to make the corrugated iron but at the time I thought once this tractor shed is done that will be the end of it. Now I want to build a smaller shed as well but the pack of iron I bought does have enough. I am now playing around trying to 'age' it.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
After a concerted effort today I disconnected all my temporary wires to the ignition, and opened up a passage for the wiring from the fuse block to the switch panel box behind the engine set-back inside the cab. This entailed repeated removals and refitting of the green section that hides the back of the dash and instruments under the bonnet. This was followed by commencing with the new wiring loom/fuse block. The necessary wires were slotted through the dash and down into the switch panel box, trimmed to length, and connected to the individual switches.
The box actually sits up directly below the dash with the wires passing through a slot in the upper front edge.
The fuse block is mounted inside the green section that I made to conceal the back of the dash, wiring, and instruments. It will have a cover over the open part.
Access to the green section for removal is much easier with the radiator and grille removed. It is easy enough to do without removing them but I was hoping to remove the head today also.
All straight forward enough, but then things started to go awry. Repeated (apparent?) failures of the ignition switch powering the four sections within the fuse block, including one particular fuse that had to be replaced three times as I struggled with the switch panel. The switches have five connections, one power for the small lights (when ignition is turned on), one power for the large lights (when switch is turned on), two earth lead connections, power connection from the fuse block, but nothing for whatever unit is to be activated??? It looks like the blue wires along the bottom that power the large light are unnecessary as the light comes on when the switch is connected to the fuse block. I think. Was semi brain dead by the time I discovered that.
Five hours on such a straight forward operation and without a successful conclusion! The picture below shows the connections on the switches, with wires as supplied from Jaycar, except for the (yellow and black) earth wires which are combined into one (seems like that should be fine to me?). The first switch has the connectors removed for clarity and although everything seemed fine when I first tested them it doesn't work as required in situ!? As a side note look at the pathetic wiring directions, laughably basic - but at least more than nothing that came with the switches!
My next move will be to use my trusty test light to determine what connection does what on the switches, but with Heritage Centre and Men's Shed tomorrow this will possibly have to wait until Friday.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, Lang, PaulFH