Bedford 214 - Fuel Issues on acceleration

Hey Sarge,
I definitely have been considering the 12v option.
The thing is, I have absolutely no problem on start up. She starts first up easy. Idles perfect. 6V seems to be holding up fine (at the moment) 10 mins or so into every trip..... that’s when the trouble starts!! This was me yesterday . Hour or so chillin on the back ! Then starts runs a bit then same again!

My Studebaker starts and runs fine on 6 volts. Will crank for ages to get the fuel up no problem.
True, 6 volt batteries aren't cheap, but you only need one every 5 years, or so.

I have had partial fuel blockages in the past. Compressed air up the fuel line, disconnected from the tank. Hopefully the one in the tank comes out with the sender. If your lines are clear, the electric pump should sort you out. Theoretically it's not warm enough to get vapour locks, yet. If you get them in summer, a bit of diesel in each tank helps. (raises the boiling point) and the engine won't mind.
It's frustrating, but you'll get there.

Jarrod.

I did put a kit through my fuel pump but didn't improve things much which is why I recommended jumping straight to the electric pump option. Electric pump can be hidden behind the fuel tank with a line straight to the carby so the original layout remains unchanged and looks original.
I was thinking around 40mph so thanks for chiming in Sarge. Seems slow nowadays but lets put that in some context;- my 1951 AEC Mammoth Major worked on the Newcastle - Brisbane run maxed out at 30mph and overspeeding in angel would result in blowing the top off the worm drive diffs. When the later model came out with overdrive (42mph!) they were put on the interstate run and mine and another were converted to tippers and did Newcastle - Muswellbrook with coke and returned with sand. It was still on full rego in 1980.
The lighter K model Bedford had a taller diff ratio and was good for around 50mph.

That coil will work a treat since you are staying with the 6v. Now you justneed to sort the fuel level out in the bowl. It then can only be a blockage or needle and seat.

Ok...
Coil installed. Start up. Perfect!
However... Electric pump installed. I’ve gone from one extreme to the next!
Too much fuel! I have left the original mechanical on and running. Should be ok? or is this a bad move? Approx 4-5 psi on inline pump.
It is late on a Monday but was keen to get installed and maybe a small test drive.... fail!
I’m hoping it’s only adjustment. Is it normal to adjust right down when an electric is installed with a carb ? Or do I go back in and lower or lift the pin?
When open fuel is easily triple what it should be and a small amount flows down outside.

I slowed down the fuel flow in a ride on mower that had an electric fuel pump fitted by pushing an 0.9 mm MIG welding tip up the fuel line and clamping. Did the job. but you still need to remember, pressure and flow are two different beasts that need to be controlled.

Michael, what are you adjusting?

I think nearly everyone will say they have never had a problem with electric pumps putting out too much and they just replace the mechanical one seamlessly. You can buy in-line fuel pressure adjusters pretty cheap but I can not understand why you would need one. 4-5psi is getting up there. You didn't get a high pressure pump aimed at a modern large or injected vehicle? They come in various capacities.

Is your needle the rubber tip type? If so this might be your problem. Modern fuel attacks the rubber (Army jeeps are classic) and causes it to stick in the seat - cutting off fuel at normal pressure or now you have pepped the pressure up the misshapen rubber tip does not seal. A full metal needle fixes that,

These are the pointers I need. Pretty new to all this!
You’re right I thought it should have been a pretty easy transition.
I would be adjusting the mixture. But sounds like this is probably not necessary.
Purchased www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/6-vo...psi-FF-060/ZPN-01668
The needle is not the rubber type.
Is the mechanical pump causing any issues?
Thinking I might need to have a serious look the whole set up during the day!
Thanks Lang really appreciate your assistance
Michael

As soon as I saw your needle and seat set up I shit myself. I had one exactly the same style with that friggin spring set up. It was jambing the needle and caused most of my fuel issues in my tractor on the Solex FV-30 carby.
I found a vintage carby place up on the Gold Coast that had the genuine Solex needle and seat that does not use those bloody springs. I will have a look for their contact details if you like.
Best advise here is piss that bit of crap off.

So you think the needle could be causing the overflow and flooding it?
So correct me if I’m wrong. The needle and float set up holds back the flow until the throttle is open? If it sticks it floods?
The carb is a Zenith 30. The photo is the old needle set up, the refurb kit had one that does not have the spring, it does however have a much small pin hole. (Don’t have a photo) Still could be sticking, I’ll check.
Michael