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The MightyBoy - is it restoration or Hotrodding?

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3 years 5 days ago #220701 by Zuffen
The following user(s) said Thank You: bparo, cobbadog, Lang, PaulFH, asw120, V8Ian, oliver1950

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3 years 5 days ago #220707 by Lang
Great job. I have no doubt it handles 100 times better than the original with the engine weight in the middle. Looks very much like a Ford Econoline pick-up from the 60s (which handled like crap compared to their GM Corvair rear engined rival). What a nice looking vehicle.

Lang

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3 years 5 days ago #220711 by cobbadog
That is stunning! Complete with full NSW rego, you must have engineers with an open mind that appreciate your workmanship.
How good will it be to see it as a Hot Wheels model?

Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.

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2 years 7 months ago #225466 by Zuffen
Many months later the MightBoy is finally getting attention.

My work on Helen's shed has come to a halt due to lockdown and I've caught up with some other important tasks.

The oil leak in the steering was a loose union on the pump, so 5 minute fix.

Moved onto the brakes that have been a pin.

On the first pump they will only work at the very bottom of the pedal's travel.

Second pump the brakes are brilliant. so it isn't the pads not against the discs.

The master cylinder and callipers came off the same vehicle so they are correctly matched

I've bled the brakes a few times and there's no air coming out with the nice clean (new) fluid.

Pretty sure there isn't excessive free play in the brake mechanism.

This one has me stumped so I'm searching for answers/suggestions.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Tassie Dan

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2 years 7 months ago #225468 by Inter-Action
Perhaps clamp off either front or back, one at a time and see if there is any improvement. May isolate where to look for
problems. Have the discs been machined? New pads on old discs won't match up to well and give you a poor pedal. If there
are drums on the rear i would adjust them right out to lock the drum then bleed. If you have drums on the rear sounds like
they are way out of adjustment. First pump pushes the shoes out ,then second pump puts the pressure on. Good pedal!
Not sure if that helps. That's where i would start.

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2 years 7 months ago #225472 by Morris
Zuffen I wonder if the bleeder screws face down or at the bottom of the calipers? If so you need to swap them over to the opposite side of the vehicle.

I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,

Now I find I can't do any work in this position!
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog

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2 years 7 months ago - 2 years 7 months ago #225473 by asw120
May just need a power bleed to get air out of a high spot in the lines.
Alternatively, is the pedal retracting fully, exposing the tiny hole in the master cylinder as it should?

Jarrod.


“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”

― Adlai E. Stevenson II
Last edit: 2 years 7 months ago by asw120.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog

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2 years 7 months ago #225474 by V8Ian
Is there a hidden bleed nipple on or near the master cylinder? I've been caught with that one before.

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2 years 7 months ago #225475 by Zuffen
Original pads on original discs so should be as before. Also 4 wheel disc brakes.

All nipples point up. No nipples should point down!

I've thought about power bleeding as it may well be the answer.

Sure has me stumped.

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2 years 7 months ago #225479 by Gryphon
Hi,

if the system use a split system master cylinder with two outlets to provide redundancy in case the front or rear leaks then getting the pipes mixed up can cause symptoms similar to what you describe, first press is rubbish second press is brilliant.

Terry

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