Bedford wheel/rim sizes

Dave,

Surely they wouldn't taper both sides of the stud hole?

The rims on the bus are tapered on both sides. Outside for the front and inside for the outside rear wheel. (which is inside out.)

Just as an aside to these posts, recall a similar discussion a while back regarding the "Hub -centric" VS "Stud-centric", here on this forum.
If i recall correctly, Rex answered somebody's queries about modifying/building wheels/rims for his specialty float purpose, where he was making his own up from scratch (studs and nuts that is). He has his own CNC machine to do it, someone will correct me if I'm mis-quoting.
Someone also was making up a special wheelnuts (unsure if they were a stock item or specially made) for 10 stud European rims, where the actual nut had not only a taper to suit the rim taper, but a flat "washer" machined onto the "nut" between the head where the wheelbrace fitted and the actual taper.
I wondered what the real advantage of this would be?
It may be that as you tighten each "nut", it is supposed to not only contact taper to taper but also the flat face of the washer against the flat area around the rim taper, if you can imagine that.
Wonder how tight they would stay once there was a little wear on the threads once they had been removed a few times?
Maybe some of you blokes have came across these "nuts" and if they were successful or not? From what I have read or heard of them, they were mostly designed/used on European trucks. Seems the Yanks persevered with their "Budd" style mountings, after all, if it ain't broke, why fix it? Budd style been around a long time.

Mammoth,
Was hoping you would jump in here, thanks, clarified a few things as far as series designations etc.
Will wait until I hopefully get an answer from the few emails have sent overseas. If no luck, will give that bloke in Qld a call, may do it anyway.
Thanks.

John_d.
Thanks to you, as well.
You had me thinking there for a moment, had to go out and root around in the pile of old rims I had here.
You are right, of course, my steel rims are the same, tapered both sides.
Say if the actual rim thickness were 3/8", you (or mine do anyway) have an 1/8" taper either side, leaving another 1/8" to mount the actual rim on the "ledge" of the hub (for want of a better word)
I really have to stop smoking that stuff! At least before opening mouth!
Well, that clears that up, except maybe for those nuts I asked about.
Maybe they were simply an idea that had been tried, how successful they were I have no idea.
Thanks all who chipped in! Cheers, Dave
This is the type of thing I'm trying to describe, these are for passenger cars, ones I have seen same thing only specially made for alloy rims European truck. Didn't have the parallel shank though, the taper started under the surface face of the flat area of the "washer".

Alan Richardson
38 Ewart St
Deception Bay
Qld

07 32030502

Specializes in wheel modifications

Lang

Dave I have been following this saga since it started believing that I had a J5. Then you changed yours to a J3,I still thought mine wasn't the same.I went and checked and mine is a CDJ3
Here are some photos of the wheels.If they are the right ones tell me what you need exactly and I will measure it for you.
I am about to go and visit a sick relative so won't log in again till tomorrow morning.I am very busy at the moment so may not get to till later next week
ID plate

Front wheel

Rear wheel

Looking down on the front wheel

oliver 1950.
I reckon at first glance, that is exactly the thing I'm looking for!
BUT, don't want you to gin around wasting your valuable time, next week or so would be great! What I was hoping was that someone may have had the wheel OFF the vehicle where the CENTREBORE could have been ACCURATELY measured, (165mm) including the stud hole bores (23.1mm), The PCD (206mm) and if the stud diam was 11/16" (18mm).
Really appreciated, Thanks.

Lang,
Thanks for that link,
Reckon we're finally getting close to it.
I put that picture of the wheelnut up more in the hope that someone could identify its purpose and/or application.
I don't want to use it as such, the more standard I can keep things the better, damn wheelnut threads I already have are a big enough headache!
The wheelnut pictured previously was SIMILAR except where the one shown had a PARALLEL shank, the one I was asking about had a TAPER on it. Couldn't work out it's use other than perhaps having both the machined flat surface as well as the taper, simply gave it added holding ability. Query was what would they hold like once they had a bit of wear, or been taken off and refitted a few times?
For the life of me, can't find the original photo of the wheel nut I'm asking about. BUT, apparently Volvo used them at one stage, but may have been superseded. So, if the PARALLEL shank was designed for the Alloy wheel where the weight of the vehicle would be taken on the shank, much the same as a ROH mag wheel for a Holden, say.
Maybe it was another idea (the tapered shank collar with the flat surface) that gave problems keeping them tight? Who knows?

A picture of a rear stud from the bus. The 2 tapers position the wheels (2 ) and the 'tangs' or seats on the hub support it too.

jon_d
Yep, almost identical set-up, but mine also has a small locating pin you tap into the recess machined into both the hub and the side of the taper of the stud.
You line it up, tap it into the hub, then swing on the back of the nut with a tension wrench (about 120 ft/lbs from memory) which secures the stud into the hub, the pin assists in stopping the wheelstud itself from trying to turn.
Not a bad idea in itself, if it wasn't for the mongrelized thread they (Rootes) used.

Yes, these are the same. The cut out is on the other side. The locking stud also stops the stud from turning when tightening the flange/hub nut.

Actually, I've had a stud pull the thread out of the flange nut once. Gave the funniest feeling when I was tightening the wheel nuts. The wheel nut went loose for a 1/2 turn as the thread flange nut thread gave way and the stud pulled up into the wheel face. Then the wheel nut tightened up again against the locking pin and the wheel face.

If you didn't spot it, you'd only have 7 tight wheel nuts even though all eight were torqued up.


I

What make are they, jon_d? The axles on the bus, I mean? Pommy?