Bedford wheel/rim sizes

Bedford. 72 NJM (SB3/5)

Re; Terrier truck wheel attachment ... ... Fronts are located by the nuts, Rears are located by a tapered washer type thingy on the inner, and outer located by nuts.
Centres are a close fit to the hubs, but do not weight-bear ...

Hey Eddie!
Long time, no hear! Thought you may have won Tatts and moved to the Carribean, or somewhere similar!
We been discussing different size wheels/rims as you no doubt know, a lot of people have pointed out the interchange between the different Pommy trucks.
I must have drawn the short straw, as those rims and tyres I got from you wouldn't fit the Karrier hub without having a couple of mm taken out of the centrebore. Your mate Jimmy from here put them in the lathe and spun them out for me.
We must have ended up mounting them the same as you pointed out, (although I have been saying that the ones I got off you were Boxer, not Terrier, so was wrong again!).
Once machined, they fitted the hub on the front neatly, the wheelstuds were out a fraction, but got around that by having special coned washers fitted under the original nuts. On the rear, the same coned washers installed both sides of the duals, although probably not absolutely needed on the outside, the taper on the nut should fit that.
Always more than one way to skin the cat!

This style of wheel nut is not tapered to look at so I guess it is located and centralised by the bore of the rim onto the step on the hub. The flat is simply a washer.

Cobba, did say in the text accompanying the photo that the one I was referring to was SIMILAR to that but instead of the shank being parallel, was in fact tapered. I have 't been able to locate the exact photo as yet, but reckon I downloaded it from a Yank wheel lug site, and am reasonably sure it was for a Volvo alloy style. Dave

Dave_64 wrote: oliver 1950.
I reckon at first glance, that is exactly the thing I'm looking for!
BUT, don't want you to gin around wasting your valuable time, next week or so would be great! What I was hoping was that someone may have had the wheel OFF the vehicle where the CENTREBORE could have been ACCURATELY measured, (165mm) including the stud hole bores (23.1mm), The PCD (206mm) and if the stud diam was 11/16" (18mm).
Really appreciated, Thanks.

This was a crane truck at an oyster farmer's depot so you can imagine the rust.I bought it for the Hydraulic crane on the back,I managed to get it it started but for some unknown reason it is now seized.
There is no spare so I will Jack it up and remove one front wheel to get the measurements you need.
What is PCD,is that the offset?
Can you message me your phone number so I can ring or video call you while I take the measuements.

Oliver 1950. P/M sent. Dave.

Just doing a bit more digging trying to find out just what and where that wheel stud came from and what it was used for, maybe, just maybe, it was specially made for either wheelstud HOLES that had started to wear (or elongate) ???
Not this one pictured here, but the one that instead of having a parallel shank, had the tapered shank.
May make sense, because if you look at the depth of the PARALLEL shank, it is really not all that deep, especially for a truck wheelnut , unless I have this wrong, that would make this type of setup STUD CENTRIC? Not much to hold onto, unless there was some sort of step in the actual metal of the rim . Don't know, maybe an alloy rim being deeper than metal has such a step??
Going by what wheels/rims I have here, (all HUB CENTRIC), the actual depth of the "lip" including the taper both sides of the stud hole, would only be as deep as that "shank".
If that were the case, you could say that the rim would be clamped to the actual hub by the nut/washer combination spread over a larger area, if I have this right??
SO, with the nut/washer/tapered shank combo, as you tighten the wheelnut, it not only "beds" the taper on the wheelnut into the reciprocating taper on the rim, but has the added "clamping" force of the washer part of the wheelnut against the face of the rim??
Come on all you armchair experts, what do you think? Am I even on the right tram?
It would make sense to me, but have been known to gnaw a bone, or bash my head against a wall for no real effect.
If Rex was tuned in, I think he may see what I'm waffling about, he makes up his own wheelnuts and studs on his own machine. That's on float work which is immeasurably harder on the gear than a simple hobby truck.

When measuring wheels you have Bore, PCD, Stud hole diameter, number of holes and the degree of the taper if any. There are generally 3 common types of taper, 30', 45' most common and believe it or a radius one. There are as usual exceptions to the rule like those wheel nuts with or without a built in taper and a flat washer. Then don't forget about offset. This is measured from the centre line of the rim to the back of the nave plate (wheel centre).

PCD = Pitch Circle Diameter. This is the distance from the centre of the nave plate that the bolt holes are located. This is a tricky thing to measure as the centre of the nave plate is missing to make the bore. So something for the mathematicians is to measure the centres of the stud holes and how many there are and if you know your geometry it can be worked out.

Thanks, Cobba.
You ever come across those wheelnuts I described above?
Dave