Time to get finger out!

Lang, sounds like you learnt a lesson from the Peking - Paris trip

I've got a Rossi CT520 240volt mini welder, which is a stick, TIG and plasma cutter and backed up by my little Uni-mig 140 inverter welder, I hardly ever use oxy, my big mig or 3 phase stick welder. Wouldn't be without the little gear. Carry in one hand and they even come with shoulder straps so you can use them up ladders and the like.

Yes, I have seen a number of jury-rigged devices used including the jumper leads off the battery to weld stuff. I got caught in the Simpson a few years back when I broke my Nissan Patrol ute (eaten away ex-coal mine unit) in half behind the cab. Cost me $2,400 for Peter to come out from Birdsville with a welder on his ute.

I decided to get the little welder then as it only weighs about 5kg. Probably saved both the above mentioned rescues a couple of grand and hopefully I will never need it but if I do good insurance.

Lang

One thing Barnsey does know and that's how to charge.

Lang,
You are a right proper "B", now I have another item to buy.
Cheers Steve

Dave, this is not my pic, but the old rego numbers may give you reference data at/from vicroads when you go to see the man.



I actually wonder if the cab badge is commer. That will confuse the man no end.

Sarge, Great stuff, hadn't seen that one before! All Karrier Bantams as well. More ammo to present to The Man! Thanks, Dave

Just about got the cabin ready to lift off and be sent to the sandblasters, just hope won't make swiss cheese like last episode.
Considering this cab was cooked inside a container a few years back, not in too bad nick, only a minimum of rust in the roof. Rain gutter above passengers head.
Lots of drilled holes to fill, must have had a penchant for bolting extras on
Small amount of rust in bottom curve of doors where inner and outer skins meet, most rust reasonably easy to get at, but more importantly, the basic shape of the cabin is straight.
Time (and the sandblaster) will tell just what's been hidden under the bog.
Dave

Meant to add, been advised to use 18 gauge black steel for any cabin repairs, going to have a go with the MIG but gasless, use the resin wired spool, 0.6mm.
Floor plates need replacing, but they are flat sheet panels, no curves. Can use old plates as templates, wouldn't hurt to go a bit heavier with them, thought I may come down to around 15 or 14 gauge. Odd shapes some of them but will cut quite easy with the thin wheel on an angle grinder.
Cabin mounts at 4 points, originally had hard rubber cups with 6" X 3/4" bolts with large spacers. No way would they come loose, swinging on them with rattle gun sockets , and a 5 foot length of pipe, all I was going to do was break the knuckle in the extension bar (or my own knuckles) so opted for shearing the heads off with a thin bladed angle grinder (aren't they wonderful machines), still had to drive the remaining shaft of the bolts out with a bit of old tool steel and an even bigger club!
Never get the replacement rubbers, cones for cab mounts so going to have a go at turning them up on the Chicom hobby lathe here.
Not real brilliant but OK for soft materials like brass and nylon.
Bit of thought put into it, could almost make a tilting cab out of it except for the steering column.
Mate reckons could engineer a little Japper flexible splined sliding shaft that is fixed under the dash and tilts with the cabin.
Good idea, but way too adventurous I reckon, still have to get this registered.
Dave

Good to hear you have a plan of attack. Hope the MIG works out well for you as using them does make the welding process so much easier and quicker. Remember to tack the patches in all the way around and when welding do short runs in various sections to spread the heat about and minimise distortion. With the floor patching it is advised that you weld top and bottom of the floor which is how we were told and taught to do it. The MIG makes this easy.
I saw a YouTube video of how to machine rubber. I have never tried it but it looked fun making long lengths of licorice. He was using a HSS cutting tool with a radius on the end to minimise surface contact. I don't know if that is the best way to go but it worked in that video.
What type of 'medium' is the blaster using? If it is too coarse it will pit the surface of the metal.